I have been into Macs since 1994, when I got my first used LC lll. My main box now is an iMac DVD 400. I just bought the PowerCenter to give to a granddaughter, but I am having a problem finding a driver for the NEC CD ROM drive # 462, Revision 1.13.
NEC of course does not even list it, let alone support it, so I am going to have to look at FWB CD tool kit, unless you might have another idea. I have installed OS 9 with no problem at all, after I wiped the hard drive with a low-level format. The CD drive will only recognize a boot disk, such as Apple Care, or the OS 9 install, but when the install is finished, no joy in the CD drive. Other than that little problem, this is a great machine, well worth the 200 bucks, Cdn!
—Doug Irvine in Nanaimo BC, an OLD computer guy! (vintage 1926)
Hi Doug. Thanks for writing. There are three possible fixes that I know of for your problem—which I also experienced with my PowerCenter Pro 210 and its original Teac CD drive:
- After a search of the MacFixIt Archives, I found this in the November 1999 Archive: CD-ROM ToolKit and Mac clones: a follow-up Regarding our report last time on using CD-ROM ToolKit with Mac clones: Eric Johnston writes that, with his Power Computing PowerCenter Pro 210 running Mac OS 9, he fixed his CD-ROM drive woes by deleting FWB’s CD-ROM ToolKit and using Apple’s CD-ROM 5.3.x driver from Mac OS 7.6 (a solution that has been recommended for several OS iterations). He adds: “While Apple’s newer CD/DVD-ROM drivers don’t recognize my OEM Teac CD drive, the OS 7.6 Apple driver works just fine.”
- There is a ResEdit hack available at the wonderful ResExcellence site if you’re up to playing with a few lines of code. :-)
- I have a copy of the hacked CD/DVD Driver that I would be happy to e-mail to you to try.
I hope this helps, and, once again, thanks for reading ATPM! —Edward Goss
I am a legacy Mac person, using an 8500 with 112 MB of RAM. I have accelerated it with a 250 MHz NewerTech card. I am also using a voodoo3 2000 video card with beta drivers. In spite of all this, my system is very stable with only an infrequent crash! I’ve been fixing up old hardware ever since I first added 1 MB of RAM to my Mac Plus. Over the years, the single most important thing I’ve done is get as much RAM as possible, as I’m sure you know. I look forward to many great tips from reading your column. I’m sure I’ll have a problem soon!
By the way: A friend of mine installed a USB card in a 7500/100. He began to have problems with his printer that occurred with extensions on, but not off. I told him to figure out which extension(s) were conflicted. His eventual solution was to disable virtual memory, which let everything work.
I think he has merely worked around another problem. He has a 1 GB drive which may fill up under virtual memory conditions. Any ideas? Sometimes you just have to go with what works…
Thanks for writing. With virtual memory turned off (which is the way I always run my Macs) your friend should not have any problems unless he is woefully short of RAM, or has allocated so much memory to the programs he uses that he runs out of available memory. Make sure he checks the “About This Macintosh (or Computer)” in the Apple menu to see how much built-in RAM he has, and the largest unused block available. With VM off, if you allocate more RAM than you have a program will not open—or freeze the Mac—requiring a forced restart. The space available on his hard drive would only be a concern if his hard drive were nearly full, or he set virtual memory so high that it didn’t have enough room to function. But with hard drive prices so low now, he really should consider a much larger drive if he plans to stay with his 7500. —Edward Goss
I’ve recently installed a G3 card in my desktop Power Mac 7100. I performed all the steps to the “T,” but my monitor comes on but the light on the monitor stays orange and nothing comes on the screen. I’ve replaced my video card and the screen comes back on. Then I reinstall everything again and it does the same thing. I did all the trouble shooting techniques. What now? Please help me; I need to continue on with my music and I need the speed.
When you turn on your Mac and the screen doesn’t light up, do you still hear the “chime” that sounds when your Mac starts up? If you do then the problem is related to your video board or VRAM. If you do not, then the problem is related to your accelerator card.
When your Mac doesn’t chime it indicates that there is a problem with the timing of the accelerator. On a machine such as the 7100 which was a pre-ZIF design, you must configure the bus timing between the accelerator and the logic board so that they can both run at speeds that yield a stable system. There should be DIP switches on the accelerator card itself which configure the bus timing, and the manual that accompanied the accelerator should describe the switch settings. Likewise they may be described on the manufacturer’s Web site.
The best method is to start at the “slowest” speed which will be sure to work. Then switch up faster and faster until the machine no longer works. At that point, go back to the last setting and you’re done. If you find the machine is not stable or crashes or freezes more often than expected, switch the card down to one setting slower. With a G3 upgrade even the slowest setting will result in vastly improved performance over a 7100 so don’t worry about whether or not you are squeezing the maximum MHz out of your accelerator board. Always shoot for a stable system. Running your machine too hot is bad for all the components.
If you do hear the startup chime when you start up your Mac, then the problem is likely an incompatibility with your video card, or if you are using on board video your VRAM is too slow to keep up with the accelerator and you must replace it with VRAM that has a higher refresh rate. If this is the case let me know and we can pursue this further. But my hunch is that you aren’t hearing the chime and so we’re talking about a simple DIP switch issue on the G3 card. —Evan Trent