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November 2000

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Review: Monsoon iM-700 ice Flat Panel Speakers

by Daniel Chvatik, dchvatik@atpm.com

excellent

Developer: Monsoon

Web: http://www.monsoonaudio.com/index_models_mmedia.htm

Price: $169.00 (see best deals below)

Requirements: Analog sound output (which all Macs to date have).

Trial: None

I have a soft spot for flat panel speakers; I fell in love with them when I reviewed the Benwin BW2000 speakers over a year ago. It’s not too hard to see why. Their generally sleek design and efficient use of space complement the new lineup of Macs nicely. Besides Benwin and a few smaller players, Monsoon Multimedia has been a central force in this market. With the iM-700, they’ve released a set of speakers marketed especially to the Macintosh crowd. What this means is that they have translucent highlights (i.e., ice color) but are otherwise identical to the MM-700, except that the ice costs you an extra $20. Ice or not, the 700 series flat panel speakers make a wonderful addition to your computer.

monsoon-front

Why Flat?

The key appeal of flat panel speakers is, well, their flatness. Monsoon achieves this by using “planar magnetic technology,” a fancy way of saying that a series of powerful neodymium magnets moves a conductive polymer diaphragm inside the core of the speaker, producing sound with a high fidelity. For those without a physics degree, this means that there’s a very thin plastic “sheet” that moves inside the speaker, roughly similar to the membrane of a traditional speaker but without the cone.

Now, to clarify an important point, I mean high fidelity by my definition. There certainly are audiophiles out there (those guys who pay $10,000 for their sound system) that would laugh at me using the expression “high fidelity” in connection with these speakers. But my point of comparison is not the most expensive speakers out there, but rather the sound of built-in Mac speakers, the Benwin BW-2000, and regular computer speakers in general. The MM-700 sounds much better than all of those, especially the built-in Mac speakers. I don’t count the speakers of the G4 Cube because they are external (and not separately available for purchase), but the Monsoons also win this comparison. The Benwin flat panels are a step up from the built-in speakers, both price-wise and quality-wise. But they sound crappy compared to the Monsoon 700s. Some of the nicer regular speakers rival the Monsoon in sound quality, but it’s a close race. The Monsoon satellites’ planar technology creates more focused dispersion patterns of sound, reducing reflections from your desktop or display that can make the sound “muddy,” something that really helps sound clarity and spatial richness in a desktop environment.

The big subwoofer really lets you shake up the place. It may not be powerful enough to cause a minor earthquake, but it does pack enough of a punch for most uses (but don’t expect it to fill a dance hall with sound). The overall system is well designed with a supplied remote volume “puck” that you can place on your desktop to adjust volume or mute the speakers. All other controls—power on/off, bass volume, and the standard sound in and speaker out ports—are on the back of the subwoofer.

iM-700 and MM-700 Technical Specifications
Satellites 4" X 8" dipole radiating planar magnetic transducer
44 W total system power 22 W subwoofer; 2 x 11 W satellites
Crossover Active, 3rd order at 250Hz
Woofer drive unit 5.25-inch cone, Xmax = +4mm (per DUMAX measurement)
Woofer cabinet 6.9 liters, tuned to 65 Hz; 10"H x 9"W x 9"D
System frequency response 50 Hz to 20 kHz in workstation environment
System time response Less than .25 ms dispersion to -20 dB
Maximum SPL at .5 meters 99dB RMS using EIA 426B noise

Flat Versus Regular

There isn’t a convincing reason to choose flat panel speakers over the more regular cubic/cone design or vice versa. It mostly boils down to a matter of taste. I personally think flat panels are much prettier. They use less space, fit better on the desktop, and can be hung from the wall (although the iM/MM-700s are not directly wall-mountable). There’s also the coolness and high-tech factor. I don’t see any reason not to recommend flat panel speakers. Their sound quality is on par with comparable regular speakers in the same price class, if not better. If you don’t like the way they look with your system, don’t get them.

If you decide you want a sleek flat-panel speaker system, the next question is which one. The Benwin speakers I reviewed before are a good value for the money. There are more expensive Benwin speakers for more demanding users. But if you want a really nice system and are prepared to pay for it, the Monsoon speakers are one of the best alternatives. If the 700 series is too powerful or too weak for you, Monsoon also offers the MM-500 and MM-1000, respectively, to address your concerns. I found the iM/MM-700 to be the best value for the money and to look best overall (OK, so looks do matter a lot to me). Personally, I don’t think the little icing on the iM version is worth the extra $20, although it looks very nice next to a snow iMac.

The Verdict

Choosing speakers is a bit like choosing a car: there’s no clear best choice. It depends on what kind of car you want, what color you like, and how much you want to pay. But of all the flat panels I have seen and tried, the Monsoon iM-700 is simply the coolest pair at an attractive price.

Pluses: Good sound, powerful bass, cool design, handy remote control.

Minuses: Maybe a bit pricey, but can be found at discounts (see below). Should be wall-mountable.

Best Deal: The lowest price I have seen is $99.99 for the MM-700 at Computers4sure.

Reader Comments (264)

Daniel Chvatik (ATPM Staff) · June 5, 2001 - 01:38 EST #1
The newer iM-700s now support digital audio via USB for newer Macs (see details).
Geoff DeWire · September 27, 2002 - 23:03 EST #2
Don't buy these speakers. They have have horrible treble and mid range. Plus, there are no convenient volume controls on the speakers themselves.
David Ochoa · September 8, 2003 - 14:04 EST #3
I have a set of Monsoon #mm700, but the remote volume puck is broken. Could I get information where I can buy another remote? All the places I have looked into sell the complete sets.

Thank you.
Lee Bennett (ATPM Staff) · September 12, 2003 - 12:14 EST #4
David - factory-original remotes (as opposed to universal remotes) are pretty much things you'll never be able to just walk into a store and purchase. Your best option is generally to contact the company and obtain one directly from them.
anonymous · January 2, 2004 - 11:37 EST #5
If these don't sound great in your system, then you either have a defective pair or don't know what good sound is supposed to sound like. I am one of those guys who has $10,000+ invested in my main audio system and, while these aren't going to replace it, they come closer than any other computer speakers I've encountered. A friend of mine teaches physics at the local university and I borrowed a test rig. Measuring from the typical listening setup, these measured very well. I suspect a lot of the headbangers can't get them to boom enough and think they don't sound right.
anonymous · January 3, 2004 - 01:25 EST #6
I agree with the previous anonymous comment. These speakers sound great, unless you're wearing earplugs, and anyone who throws a $150 pair of anything in the trash is in need of a reality check. Why not just return them to the store?
Todd · February 8, 2004 - 10:10 EST #7
I have to agree. These are great speakers--very delicate and a true delight to listen to. If you are the type who wants thick muddy bass that resonates in the walls, then move on. If you want a true musical experience, then get these. The bass is tight and accurate--not bloated and boomy.
Jeff A. · February 10, 2004 - 21:00 EST #8
Did David ever find that control? I need the same thing.
Earl · February 12, 2004 - 13:04 EST #9
Does anyone know where I can get a power supply for my Monsoon MM1000 50w speakers? I live in Canada and would prefer the manufacturer's product. The specs are 120v, 60hz, 50w output, 15vdc. The amperage should be between 2 and 3 amps. There is no tag on the back of the sub to indicate the exact amperage. Any suggestions or if someone knows the manufacturer's mailing address would be appreciated.
Matt · April 16, 2004 - 14:49 EST #10
I suggest contacting the mfr for those parts. If you can find a power supply that has the same specs I'm sure though that any would work.

Monsoon's New Site up soon

I have friends with this set. In fact one turned me on to Monsoons, I knew nothing of them. I bought an MH-505 set, 5.1 surround. AWESOME sound coming from my Mac, I had no concept that such great audio could come out of a computer. These things ROCK, I highly recommend any of the Monsoon line. I do prefer speakers you can control right at hand, so I would opt for ones with a control box. Never had any trouble with mine.

Those guys who said they sound horrible...well, in my opinion your output was probly terrible, your settings probly weren't correct or you were using a sound card that was circa 1989 or something. These speakers do NOT sound bad in the least, and I'm quite amazed to see these guys dissing them, I've not seen a poor review any place on Monsoons.
George · May 14, 2004 - 09:48 EST #11
A good place to purchase power supplies is at
www.jameco.com
Thay have tons of items for electronics hobbyists, with excellent selectrions in just about all areas.
I have given them a number of orders, and I can say that their customer support and overall service is first rate.
Eric · July 21, 2004 - 22:29 EST #12
I picked up my MM-700 for about $40 and I must say...very nice. The only thing that was wrong with mine is that it's missing a leg on the subwoffer and the remote was AWOL. Makes my laptop sound like a movie theatre. For people without hearing loss these are great.
john · August 24, 2004 - 20:46 EST #13
Like many others I need to find volume control and connecting cable for Monsoon Planarmedia 9 series. Manufacturers website still says coming soon and they are out of business. Thinking of volume control from other manufacturers, any suggestions. thanks.
Bryan · September 22, 2004 - 15:34 EST #14
The Monsoons M-700 are very nice speakers -the clarity is ultimate. As for the volume control or puck it sucks out loud. I have been trying to find a replacement part for these speaker for over a year -where do you find the part. I need the the set of line that attach to the computer and along the sub.

Now does this company actually exist? They might sound great when they work -but I do not have music here.

Is there another solution to this problem where I could use different lines or hook it up different.

All the help especially where to get the replacement line would be really appreciated.

Thanks everyone 0:)
Paul Michaelson · September 25, 2004 - 19:01 EST #15
I purchesd this beefy (looking) set of speakers.
They sound great they rock hard and loud. But when i took it out of the box the connecting volume cable wire was defective. I took it back and got a replacement of the exaxt same set. Well after awhile the same defect with the volue wire apeared in my new set. OF course the company is out of business and now i can see why. The speakers themselvs are solid but they are useing some defective parts. DO NOT BUY THEASE SPEAKERS

Jeff L. · October 16, 2004 - 13:26 EST #16
The same thing happened to me. I bought the monsoons, got them home and they sounded great, but then when I went to move them, found the connecting wire from the control center had disinigrated, and it broke off into the sub woofer. Can anyone tell me where I can find a replacement part?
Slide · October 17, 2004 - 13:19 EST #17
My connecting wire on my control center just broke off into my subwoofer. Please help if you know where to find a replacement part.
Jim H · December 2, 2004 - 14:54 EST #18
I'd like to buy a set of mm700s. Anybody know where they can be bought (especially in the price range Eric paid!)? I'd even consider used if fully functinal and well cared for. Email me at jbh1958@sbcglobal.net.
robert williams · December 18, 2004 - 10:06 EST #19
i got a model 2003 years. 14 audio system it looke the same that you show. i got a wire control with vol,bass ,treble.on it .the wire connector is broke.
cani have another connector or the assembly need help please
eRock · December 18, 2004 - 22:24 EST #20
I need the volume puck too! :(
robert williams · December 20, 2004 - 08:58 EST #21
need phone of MONSOON compagny in canada or us PLEASE
not the site it's not open
the phone please need remote volume whire brooke
THANKS
Adam E · December 22, 2004 - 23:35 EST #22
I too am looking for a replacement controller for the Monsoon Planarmedia 9 series. Very frustrating that the entire setup is useless without the controller. If anyone has found where I can get a replacement, or how to make due without one, please post.
Mike B · January 1, 2005 - 14:14 EST #23
I have the monsoon planarmedia 9 audio system and i was listening to music the other day and all of a sudden it turned off. It was extremely hot and has not worked since. i can hear the power supply turning on when i hit the on button but am not getting anything. anyone else have this problem or know how to fix?
brian russell · February 4, 2005 - 07:16 EST #24
it is refreshing to find a current conversation after so many hours of nearly fruitless research. It's disappointing that no one has any answers, but it's comforting to know that there are still people with questions out there. keep it up :-)
Becky · February 28, 2005 - 18:06 EST #25
wow, i can't believe there are so many people who know about monsoon. i used to work for a call centre in vancouver and we took orders for these speakers but we hardly got any calls. yes, there were tons of complaints about missing pucks, legs, and other defective things but overall, the customers were really impressed by the sound quality and everything. i think the company is under a different name now. hopefully this helps for parts and stuff.
Level 9™ Sound Designs Inc.
11782 Hammersmith Way, Suite 201
Richmond, BC Canada V7A 5E3
Tel: 604-504-5286
Toll Free: 877-722-8346
URL: www.monsoonaudio.com
Email: cservice@level9sound.com

don't quote me on this since i just came across the info on the internet... hahaha...
{SRT}RAGE · March 6, 2005 - 10:37 EST #26
Awesome sound, loud and clear. Like EVERYONE else, I am looking for my third volume control puck. What I would really like is if someone smarter than I am could tell me how to bypass this piece of junk, and control the volume another way.
guy · March 30, 2005 - 18:33 EST #27
I own these speakers and think there great, funny thing is I got them out of the garbage. Anyway I always see people selling parts of the system on ebay if you need something and can't find it.
Robert · April 14, 2005 - 20:30 EST #28
I am on my 3rd set of monsoons. My first set i bought were the mm-700, and i loved them, but the connector that the minijack from the computer shorted out inside, i was able to re solder it. These still sound great. I also bought the 702 adjustable stands for these. About a year later i came across a set of mm-1000 for a good price, but then one day, something inside the subwoofer popped, and i lost the sound from the left speaker :( I havent been able to find anyone to look at it to see if it can be repaired . Last year I had a set of PM14 ordered for about 6 months, when the merchant emailed me and said that they could not get anymore, i found a set on ebay. They sound (did) wonderful. but occasionally, the sound would go out from the left speaker, but wriggling the cable from the remote would fix it. Well, yesterday, they died completely :( i dont know if its just the plug on the end of the cable or inside the socket. I took the cover off and looked with a magnifying glass and could not see any loose connectors. So today i orderd new Edifier S2.1D digital system. Hopefully i will have better luck. These speakers have awesome reviews. I still have my mm-700s and they work good, they make a good set to plug my iriver ih120 mp3 player to. I dont know if i can find anyone to look at or repair the mm-1000 or the pm-14s. That Monsoon 'comming soon' page has been like that for almost 2 years now and looks like it will be only car audio, The PM14 were the best sounding speakers that i've ever listend to on a computer, but i have my fingers crossed with the Edifiers.
edward girten · May 11, 2005 - 01:31 EST #29
do these speakers need to be installed w/software?
Mark Chan · May 15, 2005 - 04:15 EST #30
Where can I find these Monsoon MM-700 speakers? I'm trying to purchase them but I can't find them ANYWHERE? Please help!
Rio kemle · June 16, 2005 - 19:23 EST #31
Hey i dont know what kind i ahve but i have some monsoon its just 2:1 but they are swee. you can hear so much stuff that you cant hear on other speakers. i previously bought some other kind i forget the name it was a 5:1 huge sub and pretty good looking system, but put the volume past half and it sounded as if they were gunna blow. now i know that could be becasue of my sound card but still the monsoons never had that problem i took those back and got these monsoons and i love them except for one thing when i turnt he volume up it make a litle wierd sound and i dont know why but its pretty quite
Big Ben · June 27, 2005 - 15:00 EST #32
I too need a new puck. Or does anyone know where I could get a new volume control or something to make one myself. This is riduculous.
Big Ben · July 7, 2005 - 20:35 EST #33
As it turned out the problem with mine was not the puck. But in the quest for solving the problem I the puck was destroyed so I still needed one or a replacement. I have found a solution.
You will need to purchase two things that will total in the $20 range most likely.
1) a double male 1/8" phono cord.
2) An external volume control for a walkman. Like the kind you clip on your coat.

Yes you will need the volume controler. If you connect the computer port directly to the input jack on the MM700 and think that you can control the volume with the computer volume control on the keyboard/screen (as I have done) it will be too loud.

What turned out to be the problem with my Monsoon was some kind of motherboard grounding problem I think. I had them plugged in and wet to unscrew the panel from the Sub box and I lifted the panel out and it started playing loud and clear. I tried to fix it but couldn't nail down the problem. So I have the panel screwed in but left a skew and it is working fine.
mike mike · July 8, 2005 - 17:15 EST #34
My puck on a monsoon Planar 9 went bad, Do these pucks all have a similar pinout?
JAMES GRAHAM · July 20, 2005 - 15:39 EST #35
Help!. I have the Planar 9's and broke my remote off also. Any Solutions? I wish I could use thes, they are awesome. I screwed up big time when I tore the plug out. Email me if you got an answer. Thanks. A wiring Diagram would be really helpful. Thanks, cheers, beers!
ralph grant · August 8, 2005 - 12:44 EST #36
I have problems with my woofer monsoon -1000 going to take it to ametron electonics out in hollywood big supplier i really dont think they can fix it but will give them a chance back of woofer says no parts are seviceable.??and because of the corss ove rto the speakers the woofer is a must.Sonigstix is coming out with some solutions I hope soon.
lrpgrant
anonymous · August 8, 2005 - 13:42 EST #37
When something says that a product isn't serviceable, it generally means that it's not user-serviceable and that an electronics shop with experience should deal with it.

Of course, the truth is that they just don't want you cracking it open to see how it works! ;-)
Puckless Perabo · August 10, 2005 - 14:12 EST #38
Hmmm... same problem I see. My volume puck is also busted. I'm gonna try to resolder the pins and see if that works. Otherwise, I think I may learn how to build one myself...

Either way, I agree with all - MM-700 speakers are great; this puck-thing sucks.
jon · August 25, 2005 - 21:28 EST #39
Speakers are good, PUCK SUCKS, i have to rewire mine and im looking to find out how, and the company stinks cause the web site is down and the phones are not connected. NEED a wiring diagram.
Xine · September 3, 2005 - 19:09 EST #40
Monsoon Volume Puck Delimma Solved! Check out ebay item 6796336497. Just received this little Audio Hub, plugged one of its stereo plugs into the computer, and a separate stereo cable into the output of the Monsoon box and into the speaker input of the Audio Hub - and we're back in business. And it only costs about $12 including shipping. Woo Hoo!
Lindsay Bruce · September 4, 2005 - 02:44 EST #41
I have had a set of 700 since 2000!! and have a little dirt in the puck
they are the best value for the price anyday
lindsay
ken holloway · September 8, 2005 - 17:43 EST #42
Hey where can I get the pin out for the volume puck on a planar 9 unit. Better yet is there a replacement puck.I appreciate any help you can send.
Rob Geary · September 22, 2005 - 15:31 EST #43
I've been using the MM-2000 for three years now. I decided to give them a try after seeing the review PC Magazine gave them. They are indeed sweeeeet! The DIN connector used to interface the volume control to the woofer is a bad design. I was hoping to find someone who had located a source for parts.....looks like I'm not the only out of luck. Guess it's time for some reverse engineering. If anyone cares to know how I make out, post a message and I'll get back to you.
- Rob
essien c · September 25, 2005 - 09:03 EST #44
Where can I get the monsoon volume puck for mm-700s.Please can help me.Thanks
kas · October 2, 2005 - 15:31 EST #45
I have purchased MonSoon MH 505 Flat panel Surround System from garage sale today. When I opened the box at home I was shocked that it was missing the surround sound control module. Now the whole system seems useless. Does anybody how can reach the company as www.monsoonaudio.com is down and their number 1-877-PCAUDIO is no longer valid?
Please help me.
davie blint · October 13, 2005 - 10:14 EST #46
hiya

Well, I have the speakers, the subwoofer and the puck, they sound great, they work fine except....I lost the manual. When I moved 3000 miles. And I don't remember how to HOOK THEM UP.

Can anyone help? Anyone email me the manual, or tell me where to plug in the two connectors attched to the puck?

THANKS

davie

PLEASE EMAIL ME AT pureambient17@yahoo.com
BOB QUERRY · October 14, 2005 - 15:06 EST #47
After my computer crashed, the Monsoons don't speak. Do I need to re-install the driver? If so, I too cannot find the Monsoon people. I have been to their factory in BC, but that was a couple years ago.

Bob
Char · October 14, 2005 - 23:33 EST #48
Did anyone ever figure out how to get the volume/bass/mute control thing fixed? Or where to get a new one? The pins on mine are stuckin in the sub. i have the planarmedia14s. I cut off the end n there's 7 diff. wires so hopefully someone can help out or anything. These are such good sounding speakers I'd hate to see them go to waste. Thanks
jase r · October 16, 2005 - 22:44 EST #49
It is my understanding that monsoon went bankrupt about 2 years ago...
Harvey Klorman · October 17, 2005 - 12:02 EST #50
I currently have Monsoon MM-1000 system. I have noticed a vibration on my left sat. spkr on the high end. I must have this system for over 5 years. I called the 800 number supplied by them in the owners manual, but the number is constantly busy. Went to their web site but it seems to no longer exist. Looks like they're out of business.
puta · October 18, 2005 - 23:05 EST #51
hey Xine, I got the audio hub from ebay but I still get no sound from speakers and sub. :(
Denys Turgeon · October 22, 2005 - 16:01 EST #52
I have the same problem with my planar 9 : broke the pin-plug on the control center,anybody can help ???
thanx
Tom M · October 23, 2005 - 21:48 EST #53
I have three sets of Planar 9 series. They all work great. I would like to find another set, but it sounds like the company is out of business.
shmoke · October 25, 2005 - 11:32 EST #54
Harvey Klorman: I had a buzz in the midrange vocals on my MM-1000, starting with my left satellite too. It gets worse with higher volumes. And was most obvious when playing acoustic piano recordings (Lennon's Imagine etc).

I disassembled the speaker an found the problem was caused by a deterioration of the metal plating on the bar magnets. The thick plating, which looks like chrome or nickel, cracks up, expands and causes an interference with the diaphram membrane which produces the buzz.

The front magnet array comes off easily after pulling the plastic bits apart and drilling all the brass rivets out. And if the offending magnets are on the front array, you don't even have to disturb the diaphram. But I wasn't so lucky and had to expose the rear magnets to repair the bad plating, so I had to peel the membrane off. I just picked the loose bits of plating off with a micro screwdriver and bingo.

The riskiest part of the whole job is peeling the membrane film off of the rear magnet array and reapplying it with the perfect tension for proper timber and response when you're done. A rip or wrinkle here can wreck everything.

Repairing a planar speaker is no easy task but I have perfect sound now to show for my efforts, and I love these speakers all over again. If you have the same problem and you're good with your hands and tools, you might be able to fix yours too.

I can elaborate about the procedure if you need help.
Sarj · November 14, 2005 - 19:04 EST #55
I just bought me a set of MM 700's at a pawn shop for 50 bucks and hooked them up to my TV thru the headphone jack. Awesome sound and I didn't have to purchase an external amplifier! I have a hearing problem and not enough room in my livingroom for a large set of speakers and amplifier. I am truly impressed with the sound.
Kirby Offner · November 22, 2005 - 13:07 EST #56
I think any guy who measures his manhood by his decision to discard of speakers there is really something wrong with that picture! I've owened a set of Monsoon speakers for about five years now and I have wowed many visitors to my home. I'mn sure there are superior sounding speakers systems out there that cost a whole lot more, however I can teel you these speakers not only sound great, but when most people enter into my home and see how they and look and sound all I here is wow!!! Where can I get some like that? How muuch did you pay for them? I bet you spent an arm and a leg for those. Unfortunately I lost them to herricane Katrina in New Orleans Louisiana. I would love to have me another pair. But of course I have moe important things to purchase now. But as soon as I can you can bet I'm going back to my Monsoon's!
Jerry · November 23, 2005 - 00:02 EST #57
Puta,
Were you able to get your speakers to work? I also have an audio hub but still won't work.
Xine,
Can you give more specific instructions on which plugs you plugged into what? I'm pretty sure I set them up correctly through the audio hub but they're still not working.
TED SCHROEDERS · December 8, 2005 - 12:39 EST #58
hi. i also need either a new puck or at least the correct pinout diagram and i'll change it to a 9-pin D-sub myself. can anyone please help?

ted.
ryan · December 8, 2005 - 13:02 EST #59
I had the same problem with my cable.

I tested for pin outs on the 8 pin mini din cable when I get home I'll post what order they are, I had to buy a $25 circuit tester though first.

Now I'm looking for sources to get the 8 pin mini din. if anyone else wants to collaborate with getting some ordered so its maybe cheaper with a freakin longer cable or something, or if people want to help make some, let me know by posting some replies so we can all get our speakers back in working condition!!!!!!!

Hope to hear back,
Ryan
ryan · December 8, 2005 - 23:02 EST #60
I'm back, with wiring info plus places to get new connector plug here goes.

View the plug like it's entering your head here are the pinouts:

7 5 8
3 4 6
1 2

the 9th is the outer metal rim

Colours of the wires are as follows (on mine at least)
1)Black
2)White
3)Blue
4)Green
5)Yellow
6)Orange
7)Red
8)Brown
9)Dark Grey

Places to get the 8 pin mini din male plug/mount are:
RP electronics 604-738-6722 (Rosser ave. Burnaby)
part #358-380-1
Main electronics 604-872-0267 (Main st. Vancouver)
part #26-280-0
MRO electronics 604298-4941 (Boundary Rd. Burn/Van)
Part is same #26-280-0

They are all around $2.10-2.41

Anyone like soldering willing to help me with mine?
I'd appreciate it.
ryan · December 10, 2005 - 14:46 EST #61
Sorry folks here are the pinouts, I found out some readings were crossed with my broken plug end a messs, had to cut it up quite finely to get the right ones.

But happy to report I've rewired it and it better than ever. So here are monsoon remote pinouts, as view again entering you head or eyeball:

6 7 8
3 4 5
1 2

I ended up splicing my wires with a Mac printer cable that has the same 8 pin mini din connection, which gave me some more length too, athough the order of colours of wires aren't in the same location.
Char · December 13, 2005 - 15:25 EST #62
Ryan are you talking about the planar media 14 pinouts? if you can email me at ojibadass@yahoo.com or anyone who has the wire diagram/pinouts for planar media 14s thanks!
Omar · December 17, 2005 - 17:43 EST #63
shmoke,

I have a similar issue with my 5 yr-old MM1000s; the left satellite has developed a crackling resonance in the mids with any sort of serious volume. How did you dissassemble the planar magnetic housing? Simply pry the two halves apart?
Stoney · December 23, 2005 - 21:45 EST #64
Ive discovered that the speakers aren't actually made by Monsoon, but by a company called Sonigistix under the Monsoon name. Still can't find a replacement volume control hub, though.
Howard M. Burkholz · December 28, 2005 - 16:38 EST #65
1. You can by pass the volume control-I discoverd that the hardway seven yeras ago when I got my first pair. I just don't install it and go straight from the audio input on the computer/soundcard to the input on the speaker. Volume is controlled in software or by the volume knob on the sub-woofer cabinet.

Now if anybody has any literature on the amp circut board it would be greatly appreciated. one of my input connectors seems to have blown and I need to replace it.

Is anybody interested in doing a serious upgrade to the amp? Better caps, resistors, pots, solder etc. This baby could be a genuine high end unit with some tweaking. Even putting good feet under the sub and sats makes a huge difference.

Contact me by e-mail with any follow up.

You can use any of the other Monsoons/Level 9's as rear speakers in a 4-2 setup. It is outstanding if you match the volume on the planars.
Bryan · January 2, 2006 - 02:12 EST #66
Same problem as everyone else. The connector from the volume control puck broke inside the subwoofer. I would contant the company if they ever had a web site up and running...
Weberockin · January 8, 2006 - 21:20 EST #67
Anyone able to repair the Control Center interface on the subwoofer? This systems souns great when it works. The Left channels cuts out from time to time.
Nadene Kiefer · January 12, 2006 - 21:24 EST #68
I have been listening to the music on my hard drive through Monsoon speakers since I bought this computer in 2000. Unfortunately, I slso had the puck problem. Fortunately, I had bought the stores' extended warranty and 2 years later, they still carried Monsoon speakers, albeit I had to upgrade to the 702's for an extra $30 (and worth every penny). Before acquiring the 702's, the retailer got me to try a comparable set of speakers (altec lansing). They didn't hold a candle to the sound I was used to hearing and I took them back the next day and made the deal on the 702's. I had no idea that the puck problem was so widespread until tonight. I have been searching the web all day trying to find out where I could buy another set of Monsoons to use on another computer, to no avail :*( sniff sniff. I sure hope they start producing this brand of speaker again. Never have I heard any other computer speakers that can compare to or deliver the rich sound of my Monsoons.

I must say, I'm so glad to read all these comments that are posted here because I will now be treating my Monsoons with kid=gloves. I am getting a new computer desk and am going to have to (GASP!!) move them.
Nadene · January 13, 2006 - 21:44 EST #69
Further to my comments of yesterday, I went to check out EBay after writing that and happened to find a puck controller up for bids. I just WON it .. WOOHOOOOOOOOOOO. I had to beat out another sneaky person that did the same thing I did (waited on pins and needles till the last 2 minutes before bidding). I figured it would be prudent to have a back-up just in case... By the way, I got it for $17.52US, a steal at any price if it keeps my speakers working.
Mark Bowers · February 10, 2006 - 18:25 EST #70
I have a set of Monsoon MM-2000's. Does anybody know at what frequency the satelites are crossed over at? I would like to use them in a surround theatre system and need to match them with a sub.
I have used these speakers in my hi-fi system with a good turntable and cartridge,and they sound amazing for what they are.Also,try one as a center channel speaker if your mains are really efficient.No more dead space in between!
Wearyman · February 15, 2006 - 19:22 EST #71
I am also having an issue with my Monsoon speakers. I have the MH-505's. They suddenly have developed a strange popping and crackling issue. I also started intermittently losing sound out of the rear speakers and subwoofer. I investigated and found the large puck with the 8 pin DIN connector seemed to be the culprit. While the puck controls appear to be fine, (mute button works, LED works, Volume knob works, and fader and bass knobs work.) when I jiggle the connector down at the Sub, it pops and crackles and the sound goes all wonky, with all the sound coming from the front two speakers. Unfortunately, due to the design of the puck, I can't run the speakers without the puck! Basically, I either need a way to fix or replace the puck, OR I need a way to bypass the puck and get the speakers to power up so I can control them via software. ryan seemed to have a fix, but it wasn't entirely clear what he was getting at. The worst part about it is that the MH-505's are really nice speakers! I've had them for about 4 years without a problem and I really don't want to have to give them up. Can anyone help me out?
Omar · February 19, 2006 - 00:08 EST #72
Wearyman, the eBay seller below usually has a lot of NOS Monsoon gear up for auction, typically listing new stuff on a weekly basis. If you don't have any luck repairing your controller, this fellow could be a source for a new unit (as of the date of this post, he has two units up for auction).

Profile for daystar_pw
jimbo · February 19, 2006 - 04:01 EST #73
These speakers is made similar to Magneplanar, Apogee.
They have a plastic diaphragm with wires glued onto it. Similar to your rear window defroster on your car.
If you have AC current hook up to the rear window and some powerful magnet close to them, they will vibrate too.

Should the source is bad it will bring the worse out of her. Same as garbage in garbage out.
I have played with Stereo since late 60's, and tube era too. These are not very far from Electrostatic speakers.

The power plug centre is +, and outside is "-" or negative.

Wilddogsam · February 22, 2006 - 04:12 EST #74
As computer speakers go Monsoon makes an amazing product. Also in regards to engineering - planar speakers have many advantages over box speakers, for one there is no distortion resulting from box vibrations, no cone break-up/distortion, no voicecoil warping from overheating and a planar driver weighs a fraction of what a cone driver weighs making it much faster - capable of reacting to the audio signal with greater accuracy.

Calling these speakers garbage makes the person in question an idiot savant without the savant part.

Cheers,

Wilddogsam
Omar · February 22, 2006 - 20:38 EST #75
Correction: Made an amazing product. Sonogistix and their Monsoon product line has been consigned to the annals of Great Departed Companies and Their Products that passed away well before their time, instead achieving posthumously (well-deserved, IMO) a status of mythic and legendary proportions amongst the faithful (and especially in considering the so-called "best" multimedia options currently available).

I'll always wonder what would've happened had Eastech/Level 9 never purchased Sonogistix and ultimately somehow messed it all up. At least Eminent Technologies is still in the game, if considerably more expensive.
ted schroeders · February 24, 2006 - 04:33 EST #76
thank you ryan. that looks helpful. i tried rewiring mine but couldn't be sure of which colors went where because of how damaged the plug end was. hopefully the information you've provided will make mine work as well. stay tuned.

p.s. i spent 17 years in professional audio before transitioning to aviation in 1998. it is my opinion that my monsoon speakers are revolutionary in design and superior in sound quality for their intended use. this opinion takes into account that their intended use is as computer speakers, not to be stuck out on the porch and cranked up for a block party,
Bryan · February 25, 2006 - 13:04 EST #77
[see Bryan above]

I must say that I fixed my puck so I have volume.....the Monsoon are working great....lol...that is if I do not touch the puck.

My recommendation to everyone when they get their puck working or if it is all ready working is .....set your puck at a level so you can adjust the volume through your computer only and secure it out of the way....I do believe if you keep on adjusting the puck it is only a matter of time before it fails....

Finally, I would just like to comment -my Monsoon speakers coupled with its sub rules....or as my daughter says it is 'sick' (meaning great) .... lol..

Enjoy....0:)
Matthew · February 27, 2006 - 15:08 EST #78
Bryan, how did you fix your puck?
chad · March 2, 2006 - 00:30 EST #79
Ok Monsoon fans I have found a aftermarket replacement for the volume puck that works just as good. If you are like me your volume puck has gone up and has stop working. I have a set of MM-700 and my puck went up 6 months ago. I have searched the web and have found a replacement for it. The Koss VC20 works just as good as the puck. The only thing you would have to buy is an 1/8 line both ends male. The unit comes with one line already. If you really want to get fansey you can get the Koss EQ50. This one has a 3 band eq on it to adjust bass, treble, mid, volume knob and a on and off switch. Again u will need to buy an 1/8 cord both ends male because it only comes with 1 cord. I have both of these items and have tested both of them and they work great and only cost with shipping from $10.50 to $12.95 and the 1/8 cords were only about $3.00. If you Google Koss VC20 or EQ50 you will find them very easy or go to www.koss.com. I hope this helped some people out.
Em Holdren · March 5, 2006 - 17:43 EST #80
Great big thanks, chad.

Wonder if you hear any differences between the 2 models. They couldn't be using the best controls in something this inexpensive, the extra 3 sliders might be audible with a good sound system.

Did you try the Audio Hub that Xine says works? Nobody but him says it works.
chad · March 7, 2006 - 00:36 EST #81
Yes Em I could here a differant between the 2 models. The Koss EQ50 seem to be a little better plus I like messing with the 3 band eq. I didn't think of trying it on other computers so I did today. I tried my MM-700 monsoons on two laptops and my friends computer. I had no problems with any of them useing the EQ50. You are right thow nothing is as good as the puck that comes with it but this is as close to it as I could come. I tried another volume controls like the Tandy 42-2559 made by Radio Shack. It worked but found a small humming noise coming from the speakers when using it. I have not tried the Audio Hub because I could not find it. I hope this answerd your question.
chris · March 17, 2006 - 18:24 EST #82
Wow, this is a great archive of information regarding the Songistics/Monsoon producst. I have had three pairs and would love to be able to buy more - my 505's amps went out and now I have the mm700 which when playing within it's volume level is dynamic, and very clean - way above other systems you could compare it to.

I am glad to hear about the puch issue resolutions as I had to use the puck from my 505's when my 700's went out. It is truely a shame that this technolgy is not being used and enhanced any more.

Does anyone have any more info or links on enthusiast sites and such - there really should be some way to get the schematics for the parts.

Thanks all, and happy listening.
Em Holdren · March 20, 2006 - 21:05 EST #83
@ chad or anyone else who has successfully used the Koss or AudioHub controls --

I know this seems like a silly question but I am having a dispute with an ebay seller.
I bought only the Planar Media 9 woofer, no controller. I can get the sattelites separately.

The woofer looks brand new, nary a scratch. But it makes no sound whatever.
I also connected some sattelites from another system to the sattelite outputs just to test.
No sound whatsoever from them either. I can tell the transformer is getting power.
I have the sound card directly connected to the amplifier input with a regular cable.
Have tried setting the output of the sound card to quite high volume.
No sound, not even any hiss from the tweeters.

The seller claims you have to have the controller (puck), says the controller
"acts like a preamp".
I don't believe him one little bit, not with all the comments here.
He has sold a LOT of these woofers, guess he got them when the company died.
Supposedly he tested all of them with a controller some time back.

Do you think he could possibly be right in saying that a controller is required ?

Thanks for comments !
Robert · March 21, 2006 - 09:15 EST #84
That is true with the planar media series speakers. I have the pm-14's, along with mm-700 (with 701 adjustable stands) and mm-1000. My 1000 have died, something in the amp i presume. the 700 are alive and kicking, (after resoldering the input jack to the circuit board. (i use these for listening to my iriver occasionally now) my pm-14's had the same issue as the others with the connector with the control pod, (i am also the one that posted above about buying the new Edifier S2.1D system (my current setup that i love) it seems that the wiring inside the connector that plugs into the subwoofer come loose and starts to short out. I (actually my gf) bid on the aforementioned control pods that someone had on ebay. (ended up paying something like $51 + shipping :( (more than i would have spent) but i now have a WORKING set of pm-14's again :) and they also sound great with my iriver ihp-120. So... without that control pod, the amp inside the woofer cabinet will not work unless you take it apart and do some rewiring. As far as the volume *puc* that is used on the mm series, i have used in place of it , just a standard mini plug/mini plug connector cable and just controled the volume output with either my iriver's volume or the software volume output on my pc's media player.
Robert
Wearyman · March 22, 2006 - 10:16 EST #85
One thing I think I should mention to anyone coming into this thread.

Monsoon made two different "puck" controllers for it's PC stereo products.

The first type was used on all the two speaker+subwoofer setups. It uses a standard headphone style (0.125") jack to connect to the subwoofer with, and includes volume, bass controls and a headphone output.

The second type was only included with the MH-505 5.1 surround speakers. It's connector is an 8-pin round mini-DIN style connector (similar to a PS2 Mouse connector, but with more pins.). The puck on this one is much larger, and includes volume, fader, bass, a mute button. It also has a 0.125 headphone output.

The Koss and Audiohub controllers mentioned here will only work on Monsoon systems that used the first type of controller, with the 0.125" connector.

Unfortunately, there doesn't appear to be a replacement for the MH-505 controller puck available as of today (03/22/2006). If someone here knows of a replacement source, please post it.

By the way, daystar_pw from e-bay no longer has any replacement MH-505 controller pucks, I e-mailed him and asked. He's out, and has been for some time.

For those of us with MH-505's, I think some type of connector replacement would be the best idea, an online source for replacement 8 pin Mini-DIN male connectors would probably be ideal.
ted schroeders · March 23, 2006 - 12:39 EST #86
well.....the saga continues.....i used the information contributed by ryan (thank you ryan) to install a 9 pin D-sub connector to the end of my volume control cable and the corresponding mate to the sub enclosure. i verified all of my connections with a meter. i still have no audio. the volume puck has resistors, capacitors, and a proprietary IC inside which i'm assuming is a preamp chip. can anyone tell me if that might be the problem or is it more likely that something is wrong with the audio amplifier located inside of the subwoofer enclosure? if there is a way to bypass the volume puck by placing jumpers in the 8 pin din connector, that would be good to know also. it would also require inclusion of the bass volume control on the puck and utilization of the amp in the sub enclosure. i could then just use the volume control on the computer.
Joe Adams · March 24, 2006 - 19:18 EST #87
Does anyone know where I can find a controller for Monsoon MM700? I have the speakers and subwoofer but no controller. What will work?

Thanks
anonymous · March 29, 2006 - 23:51 EST #88
So guys, how bypass the remote for MH-505???
Please help!!!
Paul Wood · April 7, 2006 - 04:02 EST #89
shmoke,

I have the buzz in my 1000's. Just happened a couple of weeks ago. (Today is April 6, 2006)

I never realised that so many folks were enamored of these speakers, until I found this site.

I wonder about drilling out the rivets to get to the magnets. I see 9. (Is that what you had?) As you drill through them, do you go through just enough to tear the head off the rivet, or do you actually go all the way through? In in doing so does that leave the membrane intact? (Must have since you had good results.) How do you get the back plastic grill off, with the stand sticking through it, so you can run the drill through the rivet. What size drill did you use?

What do you use to replace the rivets?

From your description, I surmise that you found little pieces of metal next to the membrane, and just had to remove them to eliminate the buzz.

What is the texture of the membrane? Is it like mylar? Where does the membrane hook-up to the wiring?

Has anyone found a good 2.1 (or other) replacemnt speaker that makes you happy, in comparison to your Monsoons, asthetics aside?
How about the Harmon Kardon Soundsticks?
shmoke · April 8, 2006 - 00:14 EST #90
Paul Wood: I knew that I couldn't be the only one with this buzzing problem with these Monsoons. But I do appear to be the only person to find and repair the cause of the noise, and share my results.

It was so bad that I was commited to either repair them or throw them away. It was just as I described in my previous post: a raspy, crunchy buzz that follows the midrange material. It was worse at higher volumes and with certain voices and instruments, but was basically present all time to some degree. It only appeared in the right speaker and stayed with that speaker no matter which channel it was hooked up to - eliminating any fault with the electronics or volume control puck.

I tore straight into the heart of the speaker without fear. I used a large drill (1/4") to mill the rivets down on the swedged side, not all the way through, just enough to release the head. I removed the stand by drilling those rivets too so that I was just holdng the flat panel with the cord dangling. I remember that those rivets were larger than the others and tougher to drill. This releases the stand and rear cover from the sandwitch and gives you access to the rear of the panel, and you can begin drilling all the small brass rivets that hold it all together.

Be careful after you've milled all the brass rivets and begin to push them out because when you get down to the last ones the sandwitch is going to try to fly apart with great force and reorient itself quickly to relieve magnetic tension. It could damage the membrane if you don't control this. If you have a second set of helping hands you'll be more prepared than I was.

The membrane is one with the rear panel and the front panel can be competely removed and inspected for the plating damage that causes the buzz. But the rear panel is the more likely culprit since the front magnets are covered with a thin black felt material and don't have direct contact with the membrane like the rear magnets do.

So you've decided to peel the membrane off? Okay. Start at the bottom and peel it off carefully taking great care to keep from streching or tearing the thin plastic. Heat may help but I didn't use any. If you screw up here just throw it in the trash and check eBay for a replacement.

Yes it is like mylar, just not as strong. This membrane is very fragile and is embossed with a wavy ribbon pattern that looks like it plays some role in the sound of the speaker.

Peel that off and lay it carefully aside. The wiring attaches to the membrane at the bottom. Now you're holding the rear array and the magnet damage (if you have any) should be clearly visible. In my case it was plating on the magnets that was chipping and peeling and rubbing the membrane. I cleaned off the bad plating with a micro-screwdriver and re-assembled.

I reapplied the membrane by placing wide, glossy scotch tape in long strips around the four sides of the membrane with a half-inch reveal. I placed the membrane on the rear array and evenly streched the tape over the sides of the steel panel until the membrane was as tight as a snare drum.

I made sure that the membrane felt and sounded approximately as it did before I removed it. I must have done it right because the rebuilt driver sounds almost better than the other one!

I reassembled the sandwitch with small socket cap bolts and nuts. I think I used 4-40 or 5-40 x 1/4" bolts and nuts to replace the small rivets and 10-32 x 3/8" bolts and nuts to re-attach the stand.

I couldn't be happier with the results. I've still got my monsoons and I'm back in business!

Before you dive in, you need to make darn sure that the buzz is coming from the driver and not from the electronics. If you swap the speakers between the left and right amplifier jacks, does the noise stay with the speaker in question?

The membrane is finer than mylar and is quite fragile. There is a convoluted texture embossed into the ribbon that looks like it contributes to the sound of the speaker. The wiring is soldered to pads on the membrane at the bottom of the driver near the stand.

The stand comes off first before the rear grill can be removed. You have to take the stand apart far enough to un-tread the wire from the base before you begin. Pry off the front grill and drill the rivets that attach the stand to the driver. With the stand, the plastic trim and the grills removed, you are holding the small, thin sandwitch and the surgery can begin.

Drill all of the small brass rivets from the back side (the swedged side) and push them out through the front to remove. I used a 1/4" drill bit and I just milled down the riviets just enough that they could be pushed through the holes.

Take extra care here. When the last few rivets are popped out, the sandwitch is going to try to fly apart in your hands and reorient themselves quickly to relieve magnetic tension between the front and rear arrays. If this event is not controlled, the membrane can be damaged and there will be no need to continue.

Inspect the front array. There is a black felt covering over the magnets on the front array so it's doubtful that the front magnets are the source of the buzzing. If there's nothing wrong with the front array, you're probably going to wind up peeling the membrane off to access the rear magnets.

Peel the membrane very slowly starting from the bottom, near the speaker wires, taking great care to keep from stretching or tearing the delicate plastic. Heat may help but I didn't use any. Set the membrane aside in a safe place.

Now you're looking at the rear magnet array and the damage should be very obvious. In my case, the plating on the magnets was cracked and peeling off. The plating was thick enough to interfere with the membrane and cause the buzzing at certain frequencies and volume levels. I picked the loose plating off with a micro screwdriver and cleaned up the array with compressed air.

Now for reassembly. Put four lengths of wide, glossy scotch tape around the perimeter of the membrane with a half-inch reveal and lay the membrane over the rear array, taking care to match the holes in the membrane with those in the rear array. Pull the tape over the edges, starting with the top and bottom. Then evenly strech and secure the membrane across the sides.

As you apply the membrane, do your best to match the original tension and feel to maintain the proper voice of the driver. If you have a wrinkle or a sag, it will surely impact the sound. I got mine right on the first try, and it sounds almost better than the other driver.

Reassemble the sandwitch with 4-40 or 5-40 x 1/4 or 5/16 inch length, socket cap bolts and nuts. Reattach the stand and rear grill with 10-32 x 3/8 or 1/2 inch length, socket cap bolts and nuts. Some trimming of the plastic frame will be necessary to clear the extra size of bolts instead of rivets.

If you've done it right (and I can tell, Paul, from the questions that you are asking that you'll do just fine) you'll be back in business!
BWaslo · April 9, 2006 - 00:53 EST #91
Control Pucks:

To Joe Adams and others who need a control puck for MM1000 or MM700, and can solder-
Go to a department store (Walmart, Meyer, even Walgreens) and buy the cheapest set of stereo headphones that have a volume control that is mounted as a lump on the cable. I found some for under $10 at Walmart. Some even have a mute button. Cut off the cable where it goes into the headphones, throw the headphone part out, and then strip the three wires (two "hot" and one ground) from the cut cable end. Next, salvage the cable (with a stereo plug) from another set of headphones (broken one are easy to come by!) or from an equivalent patch cable with a 3.5mm mini-phone plug -- no volume control needed or wanted on this second cable. Solder each of the three wires from the cable with the volume control to the equivalent wire from the salvaged cable (one ground, two hots). Tape up the wires so they don't short into each other. You now have a fully functioning replacement for the Monsoon pod. The plug on the cable that came with the volume control is the plug that goes into the computer. The other plug goes into the Monsoon 700 or 1000 woofer.
Robert · April 9, 2006 - 15:38 EST #92
I have 3 pairs of Monsoon speakers, the mm-700 still work awesome, and i recently recieved a new control pod from e-bay for my PM-14's, so they are back in business. My mm-1000 suffered the loss of one channel and i havent gotten them repaired yet, or i may never. I'm sure it's in the amp, so i know the satelites are still good, (ive also used them with my mm-700 amp, but i like the looks of the 700 satelites better, plus i have the 702 adjustable stands on them) But i did purchase a new 2.1 system when my monsoon were out of service. After reading a lot of favorible reviews, including one from a fellow PM-14 owner, i decided on the Edifier S2.1D digital speaker system and i am not sorry one bit. They are incredibly accurate, expecially when using the rca digital S/PDiF input. They also support analog and optical inputs. These speakers will fill a rather large room with plenty of highly detailed sound. http://gear.ign.com/articles/524/524085p1.html
http://www.edifier.ca/products/s2141/s21d.html

happy listening....
Robert
Tim · April 10, 2006 - 21:25 EST #93
I just came across this site and I can't believe how many people have tech questions about monsoon speaker...

Anyways, I was wondering if there are any alternative AC to DC converters that I could use with the Monsoon MM-1000. The specs are 15V @ 3A (I'm not sure about the female plug dimensions... anyone have these?). I've been looking around, and this kind of adapter seems pretty rare. Anyone know where I can get a new adapter/use an adapter from a different product/or sell me theirs? Thanks a lot! - Dimodae@gmail.com
RIck · April 27, 2006 - 15:13 EST #94
Were can I buy a pair of the Monsoon MM-700's. I can't find them anywhere?? Did the company go ouy of business? I used to have a pair at work and they were awsome.

Thanks
ATPM Staff · April 27, 2006 - 16:00 EST #95
Rick - not out of business...just restructuring. Their web site currently only says that the site will be relaunching...but admittedly it has said that for some months. The only advice I can think of is to just wait—or keep watching eBay.
Matthew Rongey · April 30, 2006 - 04:10 EST #96
With my speakers, for a long time the left speaker would occasionally cut out and buzz. Then, the right speaker stopped working all together but the left speaker worked nearly all the time. Well, my Dad and I finally got around to replacing the 1/8 male jack that goes into the back of the woofer, since it was cracked and we thought it might be shorted. All that did was to return it to the right speaker on, left speaker buzzing. So, we took apart the woofer down to the PC board and found that the yellow female connecter was loose. Both of the solder points nearest the edge of the board that are connected to the connecter had come loose. My dad heated the solder ponts, and it worked much better, but the left speaker still cut out. We will have to replace the female connector.
J McLean · May 9, 2006 - 10:13 EST #97
I'm so glad I found this thread. The left front speaker on my MH-505's has gone silent and I really can't think of replacing them with something else. I was considering whether I should try a sub/amp from another speaker set (Logitech) which has weak or relatively awful satellite speakers in comparison ... but if it's only a jack that needs resoldering or replacing, hmmm. My soldering skills are pathetic, but I do want my Monsoons back. Real bad. Any suggestions?
G Chin · May 13, 2006 - 04:45 EST #98
I purchased a Edifier subwoofer from a pawn shop to replace the one with my MM-1000. It continues to sound really good. Just hoping that my other MM-505's hold out longer, they sound awesome!
Omar · May 13, 2006 - 08:36 EST #99
Personally, I think it's wishful thinking that Monsoon will be back...their 'official' website has had the same bloody Macromedia content for at least two years, if not longer. When they (Sonogistix) were purchased several years ago by Singapore-based Eastech through their Taiwan-based(?) Level 9 Sound Designs subsiduary, that then was the end of the road. Eastech's seemed to have turned out to be little more than a consumer electronics holding company, and it also seems they've no longer updated use of the planar magnetic licenses for use with any of their speaker products as they once sold. Whether they still own the 'Monsoon' brand...that I haven't figured out, but I would not be surprise that it's finito/RIP/that's all she wrote at this point. The oem automotive supplier side of Monsoon hasn't been active in quite some time, and that's where their REAL bread and butter had been.
John Meyer · May 16, 2006 - 11:06 EST #100
I have a set of MM1000s. Within the last week when I wake up my Mac in the morning, there is a lot of static and a chirping sound from the speakers. After a few minutes the sounds gradually fade away. Could my power supply be dying? Certain Macs have had an issue where the power supply 'chirps' so this is what leads me to think that's the issue with my speakers. Has anybody identified a suitable replacement?

I'm really glad I found this page. I'm very fond of my Monsoon speakers!
J McLean · May 19, 2006 - 09:37 EST #101
The adapter for the MH505's is a 13 volt 3000mA and I did see a few of those on eBay (brand new). I also found a guy who has some amp boards for the MH505 sub that may or may not be working, but it's a place to start. In the meantime, I took my 505 sats and plugged them into a Logitech Z640 sub (blasphemy, I know, but the speakers that came with that set were lame) and am using the center speaker controls of that set. It sounds really sweet ... had to do a bit of tweaking with an EQ to use the planars' treble range, but I'm happy with the results. I picked up the z640's for $30, power ratings are comparable, and the plugs work as-is.
Graeme · May 22, 2006 - 20:28 EST #102
I am so glad that I stumbled upon this thread...great site and thanks for all the advise about alternative volume pucks..*(I'll go with the Koss VC20). I have the MH505 sub and dunno the satellite #'s..but I've had them for at least 7 years and nothing I've heard comes close to the sound. I know it's just a matter of time before the puck goes though.
callen · June 7, 2006 - 12:45 EST #103
If you have scratchy sounds when you change the volume, just unscrew the back panel of the control puck and spray a tiny squirt of contact cleaner under the volume control potentiometer (the thing that twists, aim up from underneath to get inside the potentiometer), twist it a few times, let it dry and hope it worked. It worked from me, it's called a dirty potentiometer, something many guitarists are familiar with. You should be able to get contact cleaner at Radio Shack or a place like that. Use a very small amount and try not to get it on the rest of the circuit because it is possible to damage other stuff.

I'm not liable for people messing up their stuff, good luck!
DisqPlay · June 9, 2006 - 10:53 EST #104
I have the MM-700 hooked to my Adcom preamp and Sony 300CD changer, and they are just perfect for casual listening. I have a full hi-fi system, and constantly amazed at the clarity of MM-700. Beautiful speakers by any measure!
Sandy Mitchell · July 9, 2006 - 01:37 EST #105
I just got the Monsoon MM-1000's at a garage sale; I'd never seen them before or heard of them before today. I found this page because, after I got home and hooked them up to my iBook and tried them out, I liked the sound, but - I discovered a few problems with them. First, the 'puck' device only seems to function to silence the speakers or let sound through. Amazingly, I can't find any on/off switch anywhere - to turn them off, I have to pull the plug out of the wall! Weird! And the volume control on the subwoofer cabined doesn't do a damn thing, so I have to control volume via my iTunes or iBook volume controls.
Am I missing something here?
malvin carino · July 11, 2006 - 18:52 EST #106
i may have the solution for the control puck if somebody will share the color coding for the 8 pin adaptor.i know where to buy the hardware so will someone please share the info and everybody will be happy...
Dapaper · July 20, 2006 - 03:00 EST #107
Has anyone tried just substituting one of the logitech or other brand control pucks for the monsoon one? I am talking about the 8-pin DIN pucks. It appears to me that many 2.1 speaker manufacturers use the same design with an 8pin DIN volume/bass/mute, so maybe it can be substituted? Maybe just wishfull thinking...
Dapaper · July 20, 2006 - 03:02 EST #108
Malvin, the color coding was posted above, about halfway through the comments.
Omar · July 20, 2006 - 15:20 EST #109
Sandy: I've always used a surge protector/power control center to turn on/off my MM-1000s. It's a bit inconvenient in terms of having to have another device, but for a Nix or Windows PC with a separate monitor, a power center is almost a given anyways. Even for our iMac (my MM1000s are currently hooked up to a Windoze box) we still use a power center.
herman · August 9, 2006 - 15:50 EST #110
I have a brand new puck controller for the monsoon planar 9 media series. is anyone interested out there?
Dapaper · August 15, 2006 - 01:56 EST #111
Yes I am interested, please e-mail me (alistair_deacon at yahoo.com) thanks!
K_cozens · August 15, 2006 - 09:05 EST #112
Any solutions for the MH505 puck? I tried a brand new controller puck from the Planar Media 14, but no luck. I can't afford to buy another set of good speakers so I bought a $5 pair and waiting for a miracle and hoping someone comes up with a solution. Please if anyone has actually figured it out please let me know. (k_cozens@hotmail.com)

Thanks.
Andrew Schaper · August 15, 2006 - 23:13 EST #113
All: Does anyone know the brand and part # for a regulator on the board of the sub amp? It is a small three prong regulator in a central location on the board, with a small hole in the top, as is standard for many regulators. Mine blew out and the only number I can read is the last one and it is a "2". Any help would be appreciated.
Bryan · August 21, 2006 - 21:57 EST #114
I've had my Monsoon speakers and sub for about four years now. They still sound great but i've always had to keep the volume down whenever they're not being used since there is God awful interference noise in both speakers. It doesn't matter if the monitor is on or off, or what brand of monitor or mouse i use (i've had several of each). Whenever i move the mouse or scroll the screen with the keyboard or mouse, i get more interference noise. Do these speakers lack appropriate shielding? Is there anything i can do to reduce the noise (besides constantly hitting the mute button)?
Dapaper · August 23, 2006 - 17:59 EST #115
Hey Bryan, I don't have that problem at all with my Planar Media 9s. In fact, one of the best and least often mentioned features of these speakers is how quiet they are, with very little feedback or white noise generated, they are practically silent. :)
J McLean · August 24, 2006 - 09:05 EST #116
@Bryan, that sounds more like a hardware/irq conflict between mouse and sound device than a problem with the actual speakers.

@Andrew, I have a couple sub-amp boards for the MH505 sub, if you're talking about the part # at position U11, it's D43 K7812.
Paul Spengler · August 27, 2006 - 16:31 EST #117
Does anyone know where to purchase a replacement control center with the plug to the subwoofer on the Monsoon Planar Media 14 Audio System? Or can anyone figure out the part number for this part so I can serach for that? Thanks - great great computer speakers but a devil to find a replacement part for.
Mike · September 4, 2006 - 04:53 EST #118
Hi everyone, I just stumbled across this forum. I used to work for Sonigistix, and I'm glad that other people are still using these speakers. I have an MM700.

Sandy Mitchell - The puck has a volume knob as well as the mute button, but it only sticks out a little bit past the edge of the plastic housing. As for the volume control on the sub, if I remember correctly that one is only active if you unplug the puck. This is assuming it's one of the early models where the puck has 1 cable, not the later ones where it's in series with the audio from the computer.

shmoke - I'm glad (and impressed) that you were able to repair your buzzing transducer. Watch out for further corrosion of the magnets (particularly if you are in a hot + humid climate) now that the coating is damaged.
Robert Heyl · September 5, 2006 - 01:59 EST #119
Long live the Monsoon speakers! I still own 3 sets of them. My mm-700 work perfectly after resoldering the input jack on the circuit board, and for those of you that don't have a volume control for these, an ordinary mini-jack to mini-jack cable will also work, you just have to control the overall volume from the device that it is plugged into , in my case , my iriver mp3 player. The satellites on the mm-700 are the best looking of the bunch, especially with the 702 adjustable stands. My mm-1000 are packed away in their original box with one channel not working any more :( I'm sure it's a amp problem so one day i might get it fixed. My PM-14's suffered the same demise as the others with the control pod connector at the sub, but I was able to obtain a brand new one on ebay ($51+s/h) and they also work perfect now. They also work great with my iriver mp3 player or my dell axim-x51v. These speakers are just too great sounding to ever part with.
Ed · September 7, 2006 - 11:13 EST #120
I'm confused, should Ryan's pinout numbers work for Monsoon Planar Media 9's (single wire puck w/ mute, volume and bass conttrols as well as headphone jack)?
Paul Spengler · September 7, 2006 - 13:09 EST #121
Glad to see people are looking at this page. I am wondering if anyone knows how to replace the 3-3-2 male pin plug for the control center that plug into the Monsoon Planar Media 14 Audio System? I have searched every possible place in the internet, and have even been pulling out subwoofer plugs on other system's display models in stores trying to find something that would work (no success so far).
Pat McCaffrey · September 8, 2006 - 10:58 EST #122
I have a set Of MM-700's. Stumbled upon this thread when I thought that had prob W/ one chanel/speaker went out or so I thought. Now works prefectly NOW! Yes, Paul Spengler, I too am SO glad to see people are looking at this page and am still trying to keep a wonderful speaker alive. PLEASE KEEP THIS THREAD GOING for those of us who have these marvels.
Jack Cahill · September 10, 2006 - 12:04 EST #123
I'm looking for a Controller for the Monsoon Planar Media 9 speakers. Can anyone help me?
Douglas Johnson · September 13, 2006 - 20:51 EST #124
I have the MM-700 system. Some time ago it developed a short at or in the pod. For awhile I could get it to work by tying the cord at the entrance to the pod in a certain way, but now I can't get any sound of it at all. Before I run around trying to find an alternative volume control, I thought I'd see if the speakers work if cabled directly into the sound card into the subwoofer input, controlling the volume with the card output controls, as someone suggested above. But before I tried that, I noticed that the MM 700 manual says: "To connect the puck, connect the yellow plug to the yellow 'input' jack of the subwoofer; connect the green plug to the line-out jack of the soundcard on your computer. Warning: Reversed connection could result in damage to your computer or sound system." That warning puzzles me. If the pod steps down the signal then I guess it may protect the amplifier -- but how could reversing the connections, or even getting rid of the pod entirely, damage the computer? I mean, there is no signal coming out of the subwoofer input, so how does the sound card get damaged? Unless I understand this better, I am reluctant to hook up the subwoofer directly to the sound card. Any comments?
Mike · September 13, 2006 - 21:31 EST #125
Douglas - The volume control is a potentiometer (3-terminal variable resistor) with one side grounded, one side connected to the wire coming from the sound card, and the middle terminal connected to the wire going to the sub. If you reversed the cables and turned the volume down to zero, there would be a short circuit across the output of the sound card.

You would not have this problem if you wire the sub directly to the sound card. Just be careful that the volume isn't set too high on the computer.
Dapaper · September 20, 2006 - 04:17 EST #126
I took my volume control puck apart for my Planar Media 9s and the output wires appared to be frayed, but as I went to fix it I found out that is not the problem. The ground wire is only insulated at the very tip, so it appears that the insulation has frayed off, but really that was all there ever was. Maybe I am not the only one who thought the control puck was a problem when it actually wasn't?

My speakers have some sort of short in the electronics panel in the subwoofer I think, but I couldn't find it. Tried replacing the fuse in there, cause it looked a little funny, but that didn't help either. I miss my speakers. :(
Paul Spengler · September 20, 2006 - 09:02 EST #127
I need the controller for the PLanar 9 speakers. My problem is that the male pin, with three rows of male pins (3-3-2), dislodged from the wire that enters the female input on the subwoofer.

Does anyone have any idea how to mend this or replace the controller? I have tried every possible solution - including examining all of the controllers I can find in electronic stores.

Thanks!
Lea · October 11, 2006 - 21:06 EST #128
Hi, I am amazed at how many people are requiring help with fixing these speakers!...
I too am in need of help...I just bought the Monsoon Planar Media 9 Audio System, at a garage sale...came home excited to listen to them and much to my dismay,no sound is coming through and I 'm not sure what to do? Looked on line for help from manufacturer and discovered this page!
I've checked all the connections, they seem good,only not sure if the connection on the remote is hooked up right...I've plugged into the subwoofer audio imput and from there to my lap top head phone out put... but no sound? Is there something missing for the remote, there's a plug in on the side of the remote, but I don't know what goes into it? Any suggestions on what I can do to get sound?
Thank you
Lea
Paul Spengler · October 11, 2006 - 22:22 EST #129
Does anyone have a control puck they would like to sell for for the Monsoon Planar Media 9 Audio System? I am out of luck searching all over for a replacement.
Tim Smith · October 21, 2006 - 09:23 EST #130
RE: The 8 pin connector from the controller to the sub.

I went to radio shack and bought 9 pin D-SUB connectors (Male/Female)and replace the connector on both sides. I cut about 1 foot of the wire off from the end of the wire harness and then cut off the bad mating connector. I used the piece of wire I cut off and on the side where it mounts to the PCB I desoldered the connector and solder each wire directly to the PCB (the pin out is actually screen printed on the PCB). You have to find an additional small wire and jump the three pads that house the plugs EMI shield as well because they are all gounds. Then I just soldered in the new D-SUB connector (male side) using the pin order and color sequence as written in the mail above. I drilled a few small holes in the wood part of the speakerbox to mount the connector in. You can drill them too small and trim it out with an exacto knife because the cabnet is really soft and that will give you a nice air tight fit. I then took the other connector (Female side) stripped the black outer insulation back a bit and soldered the internal wire in the same pin out to mate. Radio Shack also sells a D_SUB connector hood so I put that on over the female end now soldered to the controller wire. I also went to my local hardware store and bought a little rubber cork to put in the old connector hole in the metal plate just to seal it up again. Seems kinda complicated but the whole thing cost 5 bucks and the D-SUB connector type has way less tendancy to fail. Not to mention I just save a great sounding set of speakers.
Dan Haney · October 22, 2006 - 11:11 EST #131
Another Happy PM14 owner until I lost the left side. Im going to try the Koss VC 20. I think that was the one that will work with this system?
steve · October 27, 2006 - 07:21 EST #132
I pressed the power button on my MM1000 sub woofer and it turned the sound off but when I tried to turn it back on again it appears that I blew something? Is there a fuse in the woofer or perhaps I fried the converter? Any help etc. would be appreciated ! I can't find the company so I'll presume they went out of business. Is ther any company that does repairs ?
Dapaper · October 29, 2006 - 01:14 EST #133
There was a fuse in the subwoofer on my PM 9s, so there most likely is in the MM1000 as well. You should be able to take it apart and see. In my PM 9s it was just a simple glass encased electronic fuse, so you should be able to see pretty easily whether it is blown or not.
Lynne Bryars · November 13, 2006 - 20:13 EST #134
I just ran across a Monsoon AC Adapter, Model PPI-1503-UL. Class 2 power supply, input: 120V AC 60HZ, 1000mA, Output: 15v DC 2000mA. If anyone needs this part, let me know and I'll make you a good deal. Thanks
Joe Adams · November 14, 2006 - 08:01 EST #135
#134 Monsoon AC Adapter.

If this includes the volume control, that is what I need. Please let me know.

Thanks, Joe
Mark M · November 14, 2006 - 15:11 EST #136
It is interesting that this six-year-old page has become the most active community for Monsoon speaker owners. I am fortunate enough to own a fully functional set of MH-500's I purchased several PC generations back, about the same time this page was written, for about $75. Fortunate because these are the purest sounding PC speakers I've run across, and are ideal in size and power level to work in children's bedrooms providing excellent audio quality without worrying about blasting out your neighbors.

I stumbled across this site as I was trying to find out what happened to Monsoon Audio. I'm buying new Media/Game PCs for each room in my house, and something like the MH-500 would be perfect for my needs.

It seems that Monsoon Audio might be making a comeback, at least if you believe their website. I hope so, because it is almost impossible to settle for any other brand having lived with my Monsoons.
Dan Haney · November 17, 2006 - 21:42 EST #137
I picked up a koss EQ 50 to replace my original volume control but I havint had success like others. I pluged the line from my computer in to the equlizer,volume controll then into the in jack of my Monsoon bass unit. Any Ideas??
Tim Kurth · November 18, 2006 - 18:31 EST #138
I have had the mm700 for five years with no problems at all! These speakers have done nothing but blow me away!For the size and what they are,they fill a room with loud ass rock and roll. Do they have a Rock and roll attitude?? Yes they do!! I hope my puck stays healthy.
Lisa Watkins · December 6, 2006 - 17:18 EST #139
Help, I have a pair of Monsoon PlanarMedia 9 Satellite speakers and the stand has broken on one. Any chance anyone knows where or how to get Monsoon speaker replacement parts? Thanks for your help.
Omar · December 6, 2006 - 17:52 EST #140
Lisa, AFAIK the 'Monsoon' name on speakers only exists on GM car stereo units and in the memories of its multimedia fans. Multimedia Monsoon speakers have long since been out of production, and the companies that made them--Sonigistix and then subsequently Level 9--no longer sell 'Monsoon'-branded equipment. Your best chance of finding such a replacement part for your speaker is likely going to be in the used marketplace, through a conduit like eBay.
Lawrence · December 8, 2006 - 21:03 EST #141
The Monsoon Audio site I believe is for the car side of the business (and like people have said even that site hasn't updated in aw while). I believe all the computer multimedia speaker business is with Eastech now.

I have one of the original 2.1 Monsoons, a PlanarMedia 14 and a MH-505.
omar · December 9, 2006 - 21:30 EST #142
After further digging (thanks to Google), the automotive 'Monsoon' audio portion is now owned by Delphi, the automotive electronics company spun off from GM a few years ago. No wonder GM cars still have Monsoon speakers.

The multimedia part that Eastech/Level 9 used to do business in has pretty much disappeared; Eastech's own site shows that they're no longer in the computer multimedia speaker business (at least I haven't found the 'Monsoon' name or a multimedia product listing there in a LONG while). Cheap boomboxes, yes they list...great planar magnetic computer speakers...I wish.
TED · December 10, 2006 - 01:55 EST #143
i thought that my puck had failed so i picked up a brand new one on ebay for about $65. it didn't solve the problem. i can only conclude through elimination that the electronics inside the subwoofer enclosure have failed. the speakers still work fine when connected to any audio source, so my solution is to get another brand of computer subwoofer, run the speakers off of it, and live happily ever after. meanwhile, i have a brand new puck that i have no use for (the one with volume, bass control, and mute button). if anyone is in need of one and you're sure that the puck is what you need, i'll sell the one i have for a reasonable price.
d bagwell · December 17, 2006 - 11:58 EST #144
Ted I would be interested in the puck you have for sale. If you still have it please e-mail me at deebo47@yahoo.com
Aaron · December 24, 2006 - 13:39 EST #145
I recently picked 2 sets of Monsoon MH-505 speakers/amp from a local surplus dealer. No, I did not get the controller 'puck' or whatever its name is. In fact I haven't even seen one. Well, I did a little reverse engineering and am able to get excellent audio from both units WITHOUT the puck. I've completely by-passed the puck. Now, the only problem is that the audio level can only be controlled by the (if connected to a PC) PC volume (soft) control or the DVD volume control (for home theatre). I'm using one set of the complete 5.1 system for my son's gamming PC and the other (also 5.1) is connected to my home theatre DVD/TV. My only problem now is to design a proper base for the satellite speakers because I did not get any stands for these.
BTW, one channel in one of the sub-woofer amps had a problem. Fortunately for me, the power amp IC was OK. Had to replace a couple of chip capacitors and get it going.
Before bypassing the PUCK, I tried building my own wired remote but the 8 pin DIN connector, to me, seems like a wrong kind of connector for this application as it cannot be locked in.
Kevin · December 24, 2006 - 15:19 EST #146
How did you bypass the puck? I'm desperate to get my speakers working.
Andrew C · January 30, 2007 - 22:38 EST #147
I found a set of MH-500 couple of days ago in a thrifty store. The set only has the woofer and the two satellites, no power supply and no puck. I plugged in my Thinkpad power supply (16.5 VDC, 4.5A) and used a straight through audio cable to connect the sound card and the woofer. The red LED is lit, but no sound, not even any hissing sound.

Is the set beyond any hope? They look so cool. Thanks.
deepsound · February 12, 2007 - 03:00 EST #148
In Post #90, Shmoke gives us the skinny on how to solve the "corroded magnet distortion problem"... Thanks!
I just followed those instructions to repair an old and somewhat abused pair of MM-700 transducers that I thought were goners. I wouldn't say that they were as good as new because this procedure does breach the original machine-stamped tightness of the membrane- you just can't get that by hand. But hey, I'll be using them a lot more now...

There are a few techniques I'd like to add to help out anyone else trying this solution:

• When you grind down the rivets, try to leave a little "flash", so that they can be reinserted- when done right, most can be snapped back into place with needlenose pliers and will hold fine enough (reinforce this with clear scotch tape around all edges) until you get the four black outside assembly screws into place (these also help hold the "sandwich" together). I used a Dremel drill with a titanium grinding bit. Also make sure you wear EYE PROTECTION!

• Once done lightly grinding all rivets (swedged side), instead of removing them entirely, gently tap them halfway through with a small hammer on a large nail (or anything that's a bit bigger than the hole) so that they remain on half of the sandwich assembly. Be aware that the loosened rivets can damage the membrane when opening the sandwich so extra care is needed in the next step.

• DO NOT tap out the two rivets at the bottom of the speaker, and save tapping out the single top rivet for last. This is key to opening the sandwich safely and with minimal force. Once you're ready to open it, hold the bottom and side edges very tightly, tap out the top rivet and carefully pry the top edges apart. The magnets are incredibly strong, so be ready for it to snap open sideways and reseat lopsided should the bottom two rivets lose their place. If done right, the top edges will swing apart and can be pulled further apart in that direction until complete separation. Also be careful as you open that any rivets are not caught on the membrane, causing any tearing.

• Don't mess with the black felt unless you see bulges affecting its flatness. Neither of the speakers I repaired had this problem, but if you have to remove the felt you'll need to go buy some more felt of exactly the same thickness because it shreds quite easily, and its flatness is key to the speaker's fidelity.

• When removing the membrane, I started from the TOP, not bottom end of the speaker- the bottom half is soldered to a circuitboard that looks like it should stay there.

• Peel the membrane down only as far as you need to make the repair- leave it attached to the bottom as much as possible, as it will save you a lot of trouble realigning when you're done cleaning the magnets!

• Once you are done cleaning the magnets, use Krylon or other rust retardant paint to seal the exposed magnets. I took the spray can outside, sprayed a shot into the cap, and used a small hobby brush to apply- whatever you do, don't spray paint directly on the assembly, or get wet paint on the membrane!

• When reseating the membrane, definitely use the shiny clear scotch tape- the "invisible" stuff tears easily, and is harder to move around during tightening.

•Reseating and tightening the membrane is the hardest part. With the bottom edge still intact, it's a bit easier to align. Attach a piece of tape that's cut to length along the top edge. Half will be on the membrane and half will fold around to stick to the back. Before folding, cut small notches about 1 inch apart in the half of the tape that will secure to the back side- DO NOT CUT THE MEMBRANE. Starting from the middle notches, carefully and gently pull the tape around, stretching the membrane into place. Note that the holes in the edge of the membrane should match EXACTLY where the rivet holes are.

• Follow the same procedure for the side edges, being careful not to pull too hard or leave any sags either. The nice thing about the notched method is that you can go back to tighten any section by peeling and resticking! Just be careful not to rip the edges or the tape attached directly to the membrane or you'll have to make a new piece.
Also, it's probably a good idea not to let any tape overlap from any of the edge pieces, so you get completely even contact when the sandwich is reassembled.

• When you are ready to reassemble the sandwich, carefully place the bottom edges together (with the top edges far apart), aligning the bottom two rivets into their corresponding holes.
Hold the bottom and side edges tightly as you close the sandwich in the opposite motion as you opened it, with the top edges coming together last. Use needlenose pliers to pop all rivets back into place, making sure to HOLD ALL EDGES TIGHTLY for the entire process. Secure the edges with strips of tape as an extra precaution.

• Whatever rivets don't hold tight, you'll have to use a nut and bolt assembly as described. Because I am very far from any place I can get those parts, I improvised with some aluminum screws found in most electronic toys, forcing a thread in the rivet hole and grinding off the screw point once secured.

Hope this helps somebody else out there-
good luck!
zero.k · February 12, 2007 - 03:13 EST #149
MONSOON KNOCKOFFS ARE OUT THERE!
Just a warning that there's a cheap chinese no-name set labelled MM700 out there, maybe others. Pure junk!
I and several others have been suckered on eBay with an auction picturing the real MM-700s. Too bad I can't post a pic here, but the (non-planar) sats are hardwired together with a volume control knob on the bottom left sat. The sub is taller, rectangular and really ugly!
cobra505 · February 15, 2007 - 12:08 EST #150
My puck went bad on my Mh-505's. I have read previous comments on this issue and I concluded that since Monsoon is no longer with us, I had to take matters in my own hands. I chopped off the puck from the 8 pin DIN connector and i simply crossed the white wire with the black wire. The rest of them i left untouched and guess what, I am getting sound through the software on my computer instead of using the worthless puck. But I would prefer an alternate fix if anybody has some ideas....
Nicky Silver · February 15, 2007 - 13:11 EST #151
I just use a male at both ends minijack and it works fine. I'm obsessed with my monsoons (but the puck is junk).

Anyone have a fix for a rattle on very low bass on one (extra) speaker I have? I'm not all that handy.
Dapaper · March 3, 2007 - 06:56 EST #152
Does anybody know a good replacement subwoofer for the Planar Media 9s? I can't believe this company went out of business even though they offered the best product for the cheapest price! Must have been poor management. :(

Are there any other companies that make top quality flat panel speakers? Flat panel speakers are the best. I never want to go back to traditional speakers again.
cobra505 · March 8, 2007 - 14:16 EST #153
Ok...so i guess i am looking for an alternative method to control my volume on my Monsoon MH 505's. Does anybody know if a volume hub or controller made by a different brand would possibly work? Any ideas? My setup as it stands is very rigged...i am crossing wires for crying out loud.
Bryan Kelly · March 25, 2007 - 23:42 EST #154
Found this Monsoon set for sale for $15, check this link:

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=474514
Gar · May 27, 2007 - 17:35 EST #155
I just picked up a set of PM-9 speakers at a surplus store, and like a lot of people on this board, I'm missing the controller. I took apart the sub-amp and was able to read the pin-out for the 8-pin DIN:
1 - Mute
2 - L in
3 - R in
4 - S out
5 - L out
6 - R out
7 - ground
8 - 9V DC

It seems likely that there needs to be a potentiometer between the IN and OUT pins for Right and Left channels for those two to work. However, I'm unclear what type of connections need to be in place for the MUTE and SubOut pins.

I've designed and built preamps, active crossovers and power amps, so I'm pretty proficient with this type of stuff. If anyone have a busted PM-9 controller that they can either a) take apart, photo and post, or b) send to me, I'm sure I can figure out how to make a controller from scratch.
Wearyman · May 30, 2007 - 08:29 EST #156
Gar,

If you look up the thread a ways, you will see that a poster named ryan posted a pinout map

see here: http://www.atpm.com/6.11/monsoon.shtml#21056

It really is amazing that such an old thread has such a lively following. I get comments e-mailed to me from this thread quite often. I'm thinking that some enterprising Monsoon speaker owner needs to set up a fan website for these speakers. Hmmm... Maybe I'll set up another blog...
Wearyman · May 30, 2007 - 20:22 EST #157
Ok, I went ahead and created that blog. If I get a good response I may end up moving to a full-blown message board, but for now I figured that moving out of this 7 year old thread would be a good idea.

The new blog is monsoonaudio.blogspot.com. I intend for this to be a fan-driven blog, with myself simply serving as the filter and general administrator of it. There isn't much to see there now, but feel free to stop by and post a comment!
anonymous · July 13, 2007 - 22:27 EST #158
so...can you use these mac speakers on any OS? or strictly mac OS?
Stoney · August 8, 2007 - 09:28 EST #159
Since when were these "mac speakers"? Yes, you can use them on any computer that has a normal sound card.
DB · September 17, 2007 - 14:35 EST #160
I have recently acquired a set of Planar Media 9's minus the controller. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but if there's an IC inside the puck I'm guessing that it must function as some kind of digital crossover, rather than a preamp, right? Would it be possible to wire something inexpensive like a Pyle PLXR2 (under $20) as a puck replacement? The switchable crossover freq. is a bit low for the satellites, but not by much.
DB · September 17, 2007 - 15:30 EST #161
Oh sorry, actually that Pyle crossover is not what I thought. But, something like the Pyramid CR78 would be perfect, or a CR74G if you want to hook up some more mid or high speakers to the sub. Obviously, you would need to measure the voltage coming out of the DIN connector, or use another power supply.

Any thoughts?
John Bartholomew · November 5, 2007 - 17:17 EST #162
I purchased a first, and then soon afterward a second MM1000 setup something like 5 years ago. In the beginning I used the puck, but the volume control was not all that useful, and the mute switch, IMHO, is redundant. I mean, you're sitting in front of the computer already, so why is adjusting the volume from a hand-held puck any better than doing it on the computer's screen? The puck+cord seemed to have problems with intermittent connections pretty much from the start. (more on that later) These were the 'made in China' units.

I mistrust running a pair of audio signals through a cord that is barely 1/8th of an inch in diameter, ESPECIALLY when it is as WAY long as that supplied with the Monsoons, so within a couple days I had decided to rig up a true shielded pair like you would normally use to connect a CD player to an amp or a receiver. Doing this requires adapters on both ends, which is not much of an obstacle. Example: Shack part #274-883 from their web site works fine. You can combine one of these with cable #42-2550 for a 3-ft solution, or you can buy two of #274-883 and use a stereo pair of your own choosing. Personally, I hear a BIG improvement from this simple upgrade. Don't underestimate what a difference it can make, assuming you have high-quality audio to listen to in the first place.

As some have noted, running a direct connection like this will result in the sound being loud, and yes you must then keep the Windows volume slider (or whatever is equivalent on a Mac) down in the lower quarter of its range, and that in itself makes fine level adjustments a little tricky. However, the improved clarity over the original (can I call it pucked-up?) sound makes this a net win.

Next problem: on virtually every made-in-China Monsoon, the cheap input jack fails. I wonder how many problems that are blamed on the cord are actually the fault of the jack. Ken O's hot-melt glue suggestion might be fine, but in some cases it is not the solder joints that crash, it is the cruddy jack itself. I happened to have some high-end panel-mount gold-plated phono jacks in my parts bin. I unsoldered the CSJ (cruddy stereo jack) from the board and tossed it. Next I drilled holes in the metal panel for the pair of phono jacks. Note: YOU MUST USE JACKS THAT INCLUDE NON-METALLIC WASHERS TO INSULATE THEM FROM THE MONSOON'S PANEL. Install the jacks, wire them to the proper holes in the circuit board, and go. You can now plug your stereo interconnect cord directly into the Monsoon without an adapter. Plus, you have now completely and permanently eliminated the Achilles heel of these otherwise excellent units.

Recently I obtained yet another set of MM1000s on Ebay. When they arrived, I was quite happy to discover that the units were from the 'made in Canada' period. Not surprisingly, the input jack on this one had held up just fine, and so for now there is no urgency to perform the phono jack conversion but I'll probably do it eventually because this too, in my experience, audibly improves the sound.

Don't overlook the fact that MM1000s (perhaps MM700s too but I've yet to hear a pair) are not limited to computer usage. Two of my three sets are hooked up to Walkman-type portable CD players, and do daily duty as a very satisfying CD playback system.
Emmanuel Manolas · November 15, 2007 - 00:29 EST #163
I own a set of Monsoon PM7's. The chip people are talking about that is in the volume control pod is a TDA2822 is a 1W headphone amplifier chip. (presumably for the headphone output.)

Im currently sitting for exams but in a few weeks ill look at the datasheet and see what caps and resistors are in the control pod for the headphone output.

Presumably to get the speakers to work without the control pod is a switch so the speakers turn on. (so one of the pins in the controller pulls to ground and the volume control.

Ill give some proper pinouts in a week or so, for the power, volume control, and bass control.

The remote doesn't have anysort of digital encoder so it should be pretty easy to rig something up to work.

-Manny
JML · December 4, 2007 - 19:28 EST #164
I have a MM-700 where one speaker started the dreaded buzzing after moving to a new place this summer. The puck works, the sub works, the speakers are in great shape. I'm willing to part with the whole thing -- where would I post such a sale where it would be likely to receive a response? I figure that someone who is willing to repair the magnets or use the good driver would be happy with what I have on hand...
John Bartholomew · December 4, 2007 - 22:24 EST #165
Hello JML,
MM-700 and MM-702 sets show up regularly on eBay, where wholely functional units invariably sell for $150-$250. That might work for you. One suggestion before you sell: go to the back panel and swap the wiring to the Left speaker with the wiring to the Right. Does the buzzing also change to the other speaker? If not, then the problem is not in the speaker -- it's somewhere further upstream. Most likely culprit? That made-in-China CSIJ (Cruddy Stereo Input Jack). See previous thread.
Paul Whittaker · December 9, 2007 - 15:55 EST #166
Hey all - This is Daystar_pw (mentioned in earlier posts), I sell Pods and pucks on eBay as well as some other various Monsoon parts, such as mismatched PM-7 speakers sets (I no longer have any full speaker packages available). I still have lots of the puck controllers available, and a few of the pods too, so look me up on eBay if you are in need of a replacement part. I do auctions and will also sell parts to individual people through Paypal. Let me know what you need and I'll see if I can find it for you, thanks!
PHILIP ROOTS · January 8, 2008 - 13:29 EST #167
Just pulled an MM 700 sub-woofer out of someones junk pile - there were no satelite speakers in sight. It works! Will this sub-woofer work with any other speakers? Do satelite speakers have to be active planars, or will passive speakers work?
Andrew · January 9, 2008 - 16:29 EST #168
Try ebay for pucks and satellite speakers. Many on sale there. They're going for a lot, it seems that this is a collectible item. My MM700 sounds terrific. I'll never part with it.
PHILIP ROOTS · January 11, 2008 - 07:30 EST #169
Thanks Andrew. Do the satellite speakers have to be Monsoons? Do they have to be the same technology, active or passive?
John Bartholomew · January 13, 2008 - 17:15 EST #170
Philip,
There are currently one pair of MM-700 and one pair of MM-702 flat panels (w/o subwoffer) for sale on eBay. One expires on Jan 16, and the other on Jan 19. You have time to snag what you need, so go for it. Although a pair of 4-ohm or 8-ohm conventional cone speakers MIGHT work with the M-700 subwoofer box, it would be a shame for you to not realize the true potential of this kind of system.
Heather · January 24, 2008 - 00:03 EST #171
I lost the puck to my mm-700 speakers in a move. Nothing for sale on ebay (except full set). If anyone has one to sell feel free to post - seems like you might have a few buyers here.
cobra007x · January 26, 2008 - 13:05 EST #172
Everyone is seeking a puck including me...but they dont last anyway. I tricked my 505 system with crosswiring but it requires me to control the volume through my computer and it still has flaws. Is there a permanent fix for these issues by avoiding the puck?
Al from Long Island · February 5, 2008 - 16:06 EST #173
I'm not sure exactly how long I've had my Monsoon's, but probably since 2001 or so. I bought them before they were actually widely available on the internet. I think I bought these directly from Monsoon, and paid (to the best of my recollection) some insane price (I think I may have paid about $35 or so as an introductory price).

These speakers ROCK as well as the first day I had them. I baby my wires, and my volume puck still works, but I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with another potentiometer if it were to go bad.

I've got my speakers crankin' as I'm writing this--they sound as clear as the Montana sky. These Monsoon's are good friends of mine, and I hope to keep them for a very long time to come; you'll have to pry them from my dead, cold hands.
florida girl · February 12, 2008 - 22:54 EST #174
I have a set of PM 9's. Well, I rescued this set from a trash pile at one of my clients' homes. She obviously was unaware of the awe that is Monsoon.

First, the stand for one of the flat panels somehow snapped. Of course, my husband and I formatted a make shift stand (these speakers are too good to throw out!).

Now, the male connector snapped off in the port and we are having the a hard time finding a replacement 'puck', as they are called. I am not very capable of wiring or doing electonic repairs, so if someone would please help me as to where I can find one of these rare beauties. I'm dying without my music. I agree with Al- If I do not find this remote control to get the music back into my life, someone will be prying these speakers from my cold, dead hands, as well!

THIS IS BY FAR THE LONGEST THREAD I'VE EVER SEEN. IT IS AWESOME!!! KEEP IT GOING! These speakers are K I L L E R !
anonymous · February 13, 2008 - 13:25 EST #175
sound stopped after attempted Ipod download where is fuse perhaps I am told did it blow sound card if so where is it and what do I do thanks
Amanda Walker · February 13, 2008 - 17:53 EST #176
I have an MH-500 set that's been working great for years, but recently it's started cutting out at low volumes with an audible "snap". If I turn up the volume, it's fine, but for playing iTunes playlists, it's a little annoying to get a "snap" between songs and miss the first second or so of the beginning of each one. Has anyone run into this problem and have a suggestion, before I tear apart the subwoofer unit and take a look?
laserx · February 13, 2008 - 18:21 EST #177
I realized this forums officially useless. Random people posting random information that makes no sense at all...and at the same time, have nothing to put on the table such as a temporary fix. One guy braggin about his speakers...give me a break.

Let us focus on fixing these issues cuz one thing is for sure...if ur puck/volume controller/blah blah blah are working perfectly as we speak, they will not last and Monsoon is not around to help us anymore. For the MH-505 5.1 surround sound system owners and similiar puck owners, cut the wires off the puck(make sure you leave about one inch or two of wire near the base of the 8pin DIN connector cuz u need to cross 2 wires). Cross the white wire with the black wire and leave the rest of the wires untouched(preferably wrapped with electrical tape). Plug the 8pin DIN connector into the back of your unit, and you should be able to control the volume through the computer software. So basically...you are chopping the puck off the wire and by crossing these certain wires, the system is being tricked. Any questions??? cuz thats the fix...

As for the other Monsoon system owners who have a different style puck, i heard you can replace the controller with a standard controller that has a headphone jack. Apparently thats the word on the street...

Only one issue with my setup...when the computer turns on you can hear a hissing sound from the speakers. If u do, just go to your surround sound settings and change it from 5.1 to anything(headphones, 2.1, 4.1 etc).The hissing should go away then. You can then put the setting back to 5.1 and everything should sound normal. Sometimes even turning on EAX then turning it off will solve the problem. weird....and no, i cannot explain why this happens...but it does.

And yes,my speakers work wonderful with my rigged setup, they dont crack/sputter/nor fade out like they did when i had the puck connected. Actually, they sound just as stellar as the day i purchased them.
MrKAC · February 14, 2008 - 03:59 EST #178
Thanks laserx!! That's what I've been waiting about two years to hear. Now I just got to figure out where I stored my speakers.
Paul Spengler · February 14, 2008 - 09:22 EST #179
Laserx -

Great advice. Do you have any knowledge of what to do to replce the function of the controller for the PLanar 9 speakers? My problem is that the male pin, with three rows of male pins (3-3-2), dislodged from the wire when someone tripped over it.

As a side note - I just bid on ebay for controller puck and stopped. Someone paid $121 for it! There is a serious market out there if anyone would construct a replacement solution for the Monsoon Planar 9 speakers.
laserx · February 14, 2008 - 11:06 EST #180
Paul,

When I started experimenting with these wires, I looked to this website and discovered that someone posted the wiring diagram. I realized I crossed the mute wire with I think the left channel wire? Not sure which one I crossed it with but it seems that the mute function was disabled when I did this. That caused the system to turn on.

As for the Planar 9 series, it is a 8 pin DIN connector. Crossing these 2 certain wires will enable your speakers to turn on. It is only a matter of tricking the system to thinking there is a controller connected. By closing this circuit, we are in essence tricking it. If you can still connect the 8 pin to the back of the subwoofer...then you are able to do this. But when you said dislodged, do you mean the pins fell off or the puck fell off? Can you still connect the puck to the subwoofer?
laserx · February 14, 2008 - 11:11 EST #181
btw, experimenting and using the materials that I got was how I fixed it. Like I said, we cannot rely on monsoon anymore because they are no longer around. But we can use what we got.

If you have the connector, and at least some wire on it, you can have your monsoons up and running. Just follow the simple trick in my original post and all the gizmos should turn on. Granted, wires may have to be crossed differently on other systems. But lets have fun and experiment!
Paul Spengler · February 14, 2008 - 11:48 EST #182
Hi laserx -

I like your approach - have fun and go for it!

I actually have two sets of the Planar 9 speakers - so I can plug the bad controller puck in the set I am using and demonstrate it does not work.

The puck where one of the pins came out I put the pin back in just by pressing it in - obviously it is not connected internally. Now I can't figure out which one is the bad pin. But when I plug it into the back of the subwoofer the light does not go on on the puck. That makes me wonder if crossing the wires etc. won't work?

It's the best solution I have heard so far so I will give it a try and cross my fingers.

Does anyone know of anything alternative to purchase - or that can be done internal to the subwoofer - to make the Planar 9 speakers operate without the controller puck?
Ted Schroeders · February 17, 2008 - 11:59 EST #183
(reposted from earlier) i thought that my puck had failed so i picked up a brand new one on ebay for about $65. it didn't solve the problem. i can only conclude through elimination that the electronics inside the subwoofer enclosure have failed. the speakers still work fine when connected to any audio source, so my solution is to get another brand of computer subwoofer, run the speakers off of it, and live happily ever after.

i spent a lot of years in the field of audio and electronics. i have had the privilege of sitting down to soak in the incredible sound of audio systems costing near six figures. while that's another world away from computer speakers, the basic principles are the same. within the entire spectrum of sound, bass is ambient while the nuance, clarity and definition of your music is recreated mostly in the mid and high frequencies. the reason it is important to understand that is that many of you are so hung up on keeping the entire original monsoon system intact just as the day it was new. i consider myself a pretty good authority on sound. that is why i am telling those of you with a problem, if your planars sound ok and don't buzz or anything, toss your stupid pucks and subwoofers in the trash - you don't need them - they're not special. the superior sound quality that you crave comes from the speakers. buy a decent sub/satellite combo and toss those speakers - put your monsoons in their place - done! i can't stress this enough. if you doubt me or want to argue the point, feel free to write me. i stand by my recommendation. my setup rocks and it doesn't contain a monsoon subwoofer or stupid puck.
John Bartholomew · February 18, 2008 - 20:57 EST #184
For Ted Schroeders, and others experiencing this chronic illness:

Yes, by all means, DO toss the puck. Don't be too hasty, however, to toss the subwoofer. To wit, . . .

(excerpted from a memo I contributed in November)

Next problem: on virtually every made-in-China Monsoon, the cheap input jack on the subwoofer box fails. I wonder how many problems that are blamed on the puck/cord combination are actually the fault of this jack? Ken O's hot-melt glue suggestion might be fine, but in other cases it is not the solder joints that crash, it is the cruddy jack itself. I happened to have some very good-quality panel-mount phono jacks in my parts bin. I unsoldered the CSJ (cruddy stereo jack) from the board and tossed it. Next I drilled holes in the metal panel for the pair of phono jacks. Note: YOU MUST USE JACKS THAT INCLUDE NON-METALLIC WASHERS TO INSULATE THEM FROM THE MONSOON'S PANEL. Install the jacks, wire them to the proper holes in the circuit board, and go. You can now plug your stereo interconnect cord directly into the Monsoon without an adapter. Plus, you have now completely and permanently eliminated the Achilles heel of these otherwise excellent units.

Recently I obtained yet another set of MM1000s on Ebay. When they arrived, I was quite happy to discover that the units were from the 'made in Canada' period. Not surprisingly, the stereo input jack on this one had held up just fine, and so for now there is no urgency to perform the phono jack conversion but I'll probably do it eventually because this too, in my experience, audibly improves the sound.
John Passarelli · February 25, 2008 - 23:26 EST #185
Polarity Question: Does anyone know which wire the red positive band goes onto in regard to the mm-700 systems? I notice that one of the wires has some embrossed numbers and letters on them and the other one does not have any - does anyone know which side of the speaker wire the red band goes on or if polarity on this speaker is a non - issue for phase alignment? - Thanks!!
Dave Hughes · March 11, 2008 - 18:11 EST #186
I just moved and can't find the manual for my 700's. Does anyone have some instructions for hooking these up? if so, could you please let me know?
thanks,
Dave
Pieter van Leeuwen · March 26, 2008 - 20:26 EST #187
Amazing thread.
I've owned the MM700s for seven years or so, and I'm astounded that someone hasn't picked up the trail that Monsoon/Sonigistix dropped. These speakers certainly are to be guarded with your life.

My problem is also with the input jack on the subwoofer, not the puck. A little different than others, with buzzing of the 'short circuit' kind when the yellow plug is not positioned properly in the jack. But almost ANY position short of bending the plug 45 degrees in one direction creates the problem. So I've wrapped the cord around the subwoofer tightly to hold it in the needed position.

John Bartholomew -- I think yours is the answer ... new input jack ... but I don't have spares lying around ... can you elaborate on the jacks you'd suggest? TIA.
And for now, my puck is fine. Any thoughts on keeping the puck and replacing just the jack (for now?). Thanks to all for an assortment of backup ideas.

Pieter
John Bartholomew · March 27, 2008 - 18:08 EST #188
Pieter and other interested parties,

Phono jacks also go by the name of RCA jacks. These are the kind affixed to the back panels of CD players, stereo receivers, and the like, for attaching standard shielded interconnect cables. Naturally, this involves separate jacks for right and left channels. They are available individually from many electronics part suppliers. I haven't checked Digi-Key or Mouser, but these are likely places to look. There are also suppliers who specialize in high-end audio and if you want to splurge you can get superb jacks from them. Tip: go to www.audioxpress.com and click on Advertizer Links. See previous post: you must drill two holes in the back panel, and the jacks need to have non-metallic insulating washers as well. Choose hole locations with care.

As per my previous posts, I was happy to chuck the puck altogether and use conventional shielded stereo interconnect cords, in which the left and right channel signals are routed in two separately-shielded lines rather than combined in one. Yes, you can hear the difference, and on speakers that are as high in quality as these, this is worthwhile for me. In one case my source is my PC, and in another it is a portable CD player. You give up the line-mounted volume control, etc. MM1000's have fairly high gain when run this way, meaning that when your PC is the source, you do have to work the Windows volume control down in the lower 25% of the slider, which is a little bit tedious but certainly not a deal breaker. (I don't own an MM700.) To each his own.

You can be creative if you can't live without the standard puck-equipped cord. Miniature stereo plugs come in a variety of sizes; I don't know what is used on these Monsoons but I'm sure someone here does. Y adapters are available in nearly any configuration you can think of, so if you implement the RCA jack solution, you could achieve a jack compatible with the puck-equipped cord using such an adapter.

In terms of the original circuit-board-mounted jack, I doubt that there is an exact replacement part available. I have not looked to see if there a jack of the panel-mount variety in any of the parts catalogs mentioned above. That is another possibility. Be aware that these are physically larger than the circuit-board-mounted parts, so assume that you won't be able to simply enlarge the existing hole and mount the jack there. If you can locate a proper part, assume that you will also have to drill a new hole to mount it in.

Cheers!
John B.
steve · April 19, 2008 - 21:21 EST #189
where could I find these speakers locally? or the closest place? I live in scranton, PA
Daniel Chvatik (ATPM Staff) · April 19, 2008 - 23:46 EST #190
The product has been discontinued. It will be hard to find it in any store.
Ted Schreoeders · April 21, 2008 - 21:40 EST #191
steve, your best bet is to look on ebay. it may take a while to find a good pair, but just be careful and watch for solid good descriptions and around 99.5% or higher feedback. ebay is sometimes like fishing - you have to wait patiently for the right one to come along. short of that, you're out of luck.
Michael · June 1, 2008 - 23:36 EST #192
I just purchased a used Monsoon MM-2000 speaker system complete with 4 flat panel satellites, 3 speaker subwoofer, and controller. Everything is in great shape. What phenomenal sound!
I have it hooked up to a Trends UD-10 USB DAC. (It also sounds great when hooked up to an analogue tuner.)
Does anybody have a copy of the owner's manual available?
Dave · July 2, 2008 - 18:26 EST #193
What a great resource this is!!

Thanks to everybody for contributing.

MM700's here.
Jon · July 11, 2008 - 08:31 EST #194
I have owned a pair of Monsoons since 2000 and love flat plane technology, they are like a mini set of QUAD's or Martin Logans I can't believe there is nobody else out there selling a similar product. I own MacIntosh MC-30's and Thiel speakers but for the computer Monsoons rule... I have jiggle the connect countless times like any connector it wears out and probably should replaced. Now after 8 years of intense use the speakers are distorting and I would like to get a new system, you can't even find these on ebay. so sad
Paul Corbin · August 5, 2008 - 01:26 EST #195
I have had Monsoon MH-500 2.1 PIN # 351-0030B-01 Speakers for several years and they are awesome! Yeah, they are the basic ones but with the sub on a hard wood floor and use only for my computer they are great! Friends with other systems are really impressed with the music quality!

And my 'puck' broke too.(*#%)
I have resolved it by a suggestion above THANKS TO ALL OF YOU!!: Buy a 6 foot Double Male 1/8" phono cord (take your puck with you!) (I bought cord (gold plated) from 'The Source by Circuit City' in Vancouver on Davie St. near Burrard for $13.00 added $1.50 for a one year 'no reason necessary' replacement anywhere in Canada by giving
them my postal code. IT WORKS EXTREMELY WELL!! Just plugged one end in the SubWoofer Sound Out and the other in the green sound input on the computer...tried both front or back green in. I also bought a HP Vol Control Cord (normally used as a sound control for CD
Players) for $6... it works too...but has no mute button like the original 'puck' ... so what!? It is too short so I'll see about a male/female 1/8" extension cord...but right now I can control the volume by bending down a little (using the front sound out) or use the Vol control on my computer or on the program I am using: The sound is actually better as I have no doubt that the puck degraded gradually (spilled stuff etc.)
Be sure to tell them what op system you are using!
All the best ...Paul
Scott Ferguson · August 11, 2008 - 15:40 EST #196
I've got a set of MM700's that I found in a pawn shop a few years ago. Incredible speakers for the money. Every time they were playing music when someone came into my office, the reaction was the same. "Man, that sounds great... where are your speakers?"

Mine didn't come with the volume puck, but they seem to work just fine with the computer's volume control.

Now, someone needs to kick the mfg in the pants and get them to make MORE! :-)
ted schroeders · August 12, 2008 - 00:00 EST #197
scott, you've obviously not read far enough up this thread or researched these speakers much. let me spell it out for you - there is no manufacturer. the company has been defunct, disassembled, finished, ended - it is a non-company. they no longer exist. all that is available is what was made while they existed. they're on ebay, maybe craigslist, and the occasional yard sale. that's all you get. sorry.
Pieter van Leeuwen · August 12, 2008 - 14:47 EST #198
A couple of notes. I have the MM-700s and was getting the buzzing sound, due either to the puck or the subwoofer input jack. Folks here insisted it’s the jack, so that's been my presumption. Just landed a set of MM-1000s, but no OEM cables from sub to PC. Used the MM-700 puck and cables instead. Worked fine, no hint of bad connection. Conclusion -- it’s the input jack.

So ... where did I land the 1000's? Craigslist. Have been running google search on monsoon+subwoofer+craigslist and offered to pay shipping plus asked. So for those needing a fix, that's an option.
Gordon Smith · August 14, 2008 - 22:24 EST #199
Is there any tool available to remove the screws holding the power supply module together? I have the MH-500 system. The 60 hertz hum I hear makes me think the power supply has a problem, and I'd like to tear into it before I just shell out $$ for a replacement supply.

TIA
John Bartholomew · August 14, 2008 - 23:49 EST #200
Gordon, the various units I have don't use anything that unusual in the way of the screws. Before you go too far down this path, is your power module within 4 inches of the subwoofer enclosure? If so, the hum could simply be due to the sensitive amplifier circuitry falling within the magnetic field coming from the power transformer and in that case all you need to do is move them farther apart.
Desigolu · August 22, 2008 - 10:56 EST #201
Hi to the community!

I've stumbled across some MM-1000s...HP recently had an auction, and I picked these up. Problem is, I already have another set of level 9s with the pod control. Would anyone be interested in purchasing the MM-1000s? They work perfectly, come with the original pod volume control and power adapter.

If I get enough responses, I'll post them up on ebay/craigslist. I paid about $125 for these...so if you want to make me an offer, please make it reasonable :)

you can contact me at: desipunjabi@gmail.com

thanks!~
Desigolu · August 22, 2008 - 11:00 EST #202
BTW -

The speakers don't exhibit any of the problems seen earlier up in the posts. The bass is strong, and the sound is very clear. I also have a set of MH 500s that were randomly included in the box that the mm1000s were shipped in. There was only one speaker though. It still works great though, and has all the accessories (power adapter, volume pod, etc...)

If you're interested, drop me a line!

desipunjabi@gmail.com

Thanks!
Desigolu · August 26, 2008 - 13:22 EST #203
The buzz showed up. After working perfectly for 2 days...when playing midrange heavy tunes, it gets nasty.

How involved is fixing it (based on the posts above?)
keith watts · September 10, 2008 - 10:48 EST #204
I have a pair of mm-1000s. One of the satellites sounds tinny when playing lower frequencies (like it is blown). Do I need a replacement or is there a fix for this problem? I have never abused the speakers...has anyone else experienced this?
Mike · September 13, 2008 - 18:11 EST #205
Hi everyone,
After some searching and scrolling i finally found this thread! I have had a set of Monsoon mm 1000s since about 2001, and like all of you I love them.

I ever since I moved them from my original setup(in 2002) I have had issues with the input (crackling, right or left speaker will cut out). I used to be able to fix it by jiggling the wires or tapping the top of the sub near the connections.

However, last week my system cut out completely. :(. Now when I plug in the sub, and hit the power it does not light up. So it must be a power supply issue now. Has anyone had something similar happen to their sub?

I will try to find a similarly speced power supply and see if that will fix it. However, i may just need to replace the sub entirely. Can anyone suggest a good sub that will drive the mm 1000 speakers? I'm not sure if there are specific power requirements for running them.

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. After I fix this, I'll be sure to baby them. :D
John Bartholomew · September 14, 2008 - 17:59 EST #206
Mike ---
a very familiar problem. It's the CSJ syndrome. (Cruddy Stereo Jack) If you are a do-it-yourselfer, this is eminently fixable. Scroll back to entry #165. Enjoy your MM-1000s.

John
Mike · September 16, 2008 - 22:29 EST #207
Is the power issue also related to the stereo jack?
John Bartholomew · September 17, 2008 - 14:43 EST #208
Mike,

The power problem is very likely unrelated. It's possible that it's merely the fuse to the power supply, and that it blew due to a momentary surge. It could also have blown because something in the amp itself failed. There's one way to find out: replace it.

I don't know of a suitable replacement unit for the sub.
keith · September 17, 2008 - 15:30 EST #209
I have the mm-1000s and would like to sell them. They have the popping and cracking that has been linked to the CSJ, but one of the flat-panels also seems to be blown. The sub works fine,as well as the other flat panel. Any idea of what they may be worth? Please respond to kilowat3@aol.com.
miss agonie · October 6, 2008 - 18:03 EST #210
I got the Monsoon MM-700 speakers a couple of years ago, but the cable relating the speakers to the computer is broken. Do you know where I could buy a new one? It seems impossible, I've looked on their website, on ebay, etc. Any suggestion?

Thanks! ^__^
Paul · October 6, 2008 - 18:13 EST #211
Radio Shack/The Source should have the wires... I rigged a 'puck' go around using stuff from them when the puck on my MM-500's broke.
lots of luck
Glen · November 9, 2008 - 08:29 EST #212
Hi. Hope someone from here can help. I have the Monsoon Planar Media 9 Audio system. I dropped one of the flat speakers on the floor and broke the speaker stand. I glued it back, but the speaker dosen't work. I've taken it apart and checked everything and there appears to be nothing broken. I would greatly appreciate any help possible here. Thank you
Draper Shreeve · November 14, 2008 - 15:51 EST #213
I've had my MM-700 speakers since 2000 and have consistently had GREAT sound from them. I'm currently using them with a new iMac -- movies in particular sound awesome. Recently however my right speaker has began to crackle. I too have been always able to jostle the cord or yellow connector to revive them. Now this is no longer possible: as of today my right speaker is completely out. I love these speakers and want them up and rolling again but I have no idea how to fix them or what’s causing the problem. Any suggestions are great appreciated.
John Bartholomew · November 14, 2008 - 17:32 EST #214
The most common cause of what you describe is a failure of the input jack. I've repaired two MM-1000s with this problem. Rather than attempting to locate a replacement jack, I installed two "RCA" jacks (also known as phono jacks) on the back panel. See entries #165 and #191 for details.
Jim Canary · December 7, 2008 - 18:27 EST #215
I Have MM-700 Monsoon computer speakers and like them very much.
My problem is about ever 5 min or so they studder. What do I need to do to fix this?
Tks
Draper Shreeve · December 8, 2008 - 10:15 EST #216
Try working the pluck volume control aggressively back and forth with the sound off. Sometimes dust and dirt gets inside and messes the signal up. That's what happened to me anyway. So simple to fix.
Maria Rivera · December 27, 2008 - 03:22 EST #217
I just read through all the comments starting at the beginning. I hate the puck! We've had our speakers (mm-702) and for the past year or so, the "puck" would make a buzzing sound and we would hit it or bang on it and the buzzing would stop, the sound on the computer was great otherwise. One day I was not very happy and the puck kept making it's stupid buzzing and the puck was stuck under the desk, and I couldn't get it to stop, - long story short, I yanked on it and the puck broke off leaving the wires exposed. Now, no sound. So, I don't know anything about souldering or crossing wires or anything of that nature. Short of just tossing the whole set, what would be my best option? thanks for all the above comments, I might try e-bay or Craig's list.
ted · December 27, 2008 - 21:21 EST #218
my best suggestion is to carefully pack up all of the remaining equipment and send it to me UPS ground and forget that you ever had it. i'll give it a good home.
Pieter van Leeuwen · December 30, 2008 - 22:46 EST #219
I just lost all sound from the right channel on my MM-1000 subwoofer. Would anyone have suggestions for diagnosing and repairing the problem (amp? fuse?) and/or a prognosis?

Thanks to all for the continuing interest in these.

AND .. just in case, with another year nearly behind us, are there any other audio spkr systems worth examining that can touch these Monsoons without running the bill into home stereo component pricing?
Paul Spengler · January 10, 2009 - 13:34 EST #220
I finally began to sit down today to repair my Monsoon Planar Media 9 puck connection on the subwoofer. In preparation I ended up reading this entire discussion thread. I had thought (from previous reads) there was a solution in this discussion thread for fixing the problematic female jack where the male puck connector (with multiple pins) connects on the back of the subwoofer.

Instead, I realized all of the solutions were for other issues. Does anyone know what to do when the female jack for the Monsoon Planar Media 9 puck no longer permits a healthy puck to communicate? Is there a way to gerry-rig the Planar Media 9 Speakers to get around the female jack for the multiple pin male puck connector?
Paul Spengler · January 10, 2009 - 13:38 EST #221
Sorry to add this clarification: The "healthy" puck I have is being used for another set of functional Planar Media 9 speakers. So it is not availbale for use on the damaged system. I need any advice that would allow me to operate the Planar 9 Speakers WITHOUT the use of a puck - and when the input jack for the puck is apparently not functional. Thank you!
Ted Schroeders · January 12, 2009 - 21:56 EST #222
it is amazing to me that everybody is so desparately attached to the stupid puck as though it were some sort of indispensible "orb" that they can't live without. PLEASE read the following re-re-post by me from after i realized that the puck (and woofer) is as disposible as yesterday's newspaper. with all due respect to john bartholomew - john, your post #187 clearly shows that you didn't really fully get my point in post #186. stop beating a dead horse. it wastes your time and will not revive the horse. my advice is sound, pun intended. the monsoon woofer is NOT special - the planars ARE. i stand by my statement then and moreso now. i am running trouble-free with a logitech woofer and the monsoon speakers. it is well balanced and sounds unbelievable. y'all can decide whose woofer you prefer on your own, but just do it and get over this irrational obsession with the parts that are not at all responsible for the superior monsoon sound quality, namely the stupid puck and the average monsoon woofer. if you care to read on, please pay particular attention to what i typed after "basic principles". read it 2 or 3 times if you have to, but just understand it. i choose every word carefully to make a specific point. no hard feelings, john. :) i hope this is the last time i have to post this.

(RE-reposted from earlier) i thought that my puck had failed so i picked up a brand new one on ebay for about $65. it didn't solve the problem. i can only conclude through elimination that the electronics inside the subwoofer enclosure have failed. the speakers still work fine when connected to any audio source, so my solution is to get another brand of computer subwoofer, run the speakers off of it, and live happily ever after.

i spent a lot of years in the field of audio and electronics. i have had the privilege of sitting down to soak in the incredible sound of audio systems costing near six figures. while that's another world away from computer speakers, the basic principles are the same. within the entire spectrum of sound, bass is ambient while the nuance, clarity and definition of your music is recreated mostly in the mid and high frequencies. the reason it is important to understand that is that many of you are so hung up on keeping the entire original monsoon system intact just as the day it was new. i consider myself a pretty good authority on sound. that is why i am telling those of you with a problem, if your planars sound ok and don't buzz or anything, toss your stupid pucks and subwoofers in the trash - you don't need them - they're not special. the superior sound quality that you crave comes from the speakers. buy a decent sub/satellite combo and toss those speakers - put your monsoons in their place - done! i can't stress this enough. if you doubt me or want to argue the point, feel free to write me. i stand by my recommendation. my setup rocks and it doesn't contain a monsoon subwoofer or stupid puck.
Paul Spengler · January 12, 2009 - 22:44 EST #223
Okay Ted - I'll go for that solution - toss the Monsoon subwoofer, retain the intact Monsoon speakers, and purchase a different subwoofer. Pretty simple. Monsoon subwoofer goes to the trash. Thank you!
Pieter van Leeuwen · January 13, 2009 - 10:42 EST #224
Ted - I'm sympathetic to that strategy -- replacing the sub. Can you offer any guidance on whether there are parameters that folks should follow in selecting a compatible sub? I seem to recall something about a 250 KHz crossover.

P
John Bartholomew · January 13, 2009 - 10:53 EST #225
In response to Ted Schroeders' post #225, I certainly have no quarrel with Ted's position that the Monsoon subwoofer is "generic" in quality, and that there are others out there that sound as good, if not better. Definitely no hard feelings on my part. Forums such as this one should remain open to difference of opinion.

As Ted says, the quality of the Monsoons is due to the planar satellites. I just took that as a given and assumed readers might already be familiar with the fact. If the problem is with the amplifier circuitry built into the subwoofer enclosure, I concur with Ted that "replace" rather than "fix" would be the better approach. If the problem, on the other hand, is limited to the input jack, which seems to fail on damn near every made-in-China unit, well then "you pays your money and you takes your choices." Personally, I went with a fix rather than a replacement, but that was partly motivated by a desire to keep the esthetics of the original system intact and partly because I own two MM-1000 systems, both of which developed the input jack problem at approximately the same time, and I didn't relish the idea of purchasing two new replacement systems such as the Logitech set you mention. The implementation of standard phono jacks as an alternative to that flimsy stereo jack necessitates tossing the puck, just as you, Ted, recommend.

I am glad to hear that you obtained equivalent funtionality with a Logitech subwoofer. Perhaps you could share with us a little more information about this, such as the model number and the wattage rating for the channels that drive the satellites.
mike · January 22, 2009 - 20:40 EST #226
I have the MH-500 set. Each speaker connects to the sub with a 4 pin DIN. I can power up the sub(red LED)but I get no sound at all from sub or speakers. Does the light turn green once it gets a signal? I think if I toss the sub i'll have difficulty replacing it with something I can connect these speakers to. Won't I?
After reading this entire thread I'll assume I have a puck problem or a input problem. I tried to troubleshoot if it was the puck (mine is just volume/mute button) by connecting sub to computer with a single male/male connector, but no difference. I guess I will need a volume control to check it out properly.
If that doesn't fix it what am looking for once this sub unit is opened up? Bad solder at input jack? Do I replace the input jack first or are there more potential faults I should be looking for?
Tranva · February 15, 2009 - 12:23 EST #227
Just got a brand new pair of MH-500 for 22 bucks at Taiwan. Pretty nice sound :)

to mike #229

some answer for your questions

1. once the sub gets signal, the light will turn green

2. MH-500 use a extra cone drive for mid-range, and it was driven seperately (that's why the 4-pin DIN is needed). So connect the sat to other sub seems not a easy job.
Mike · February 16, 2009 - 21:19 EST #228
Anyone know where the fuse might be in an M1000 unit? Or have a wiring diagram?
John Bartholomew · February 17, 2009 - 13:47 EST #229
Re: Entry #231

The fuse is located on the circuit board itself.

On the back panel, remove the lower 2 screws on the black metal panel. Don't remove the upper two. Then remove the four recessed screws in the top of the unit. This constitutes the whole amp module, which will now lift out of the woofer box.
Dav · February 21, 2009 - 08:00 EST #230
Thank you for the knowledge that the puck is not necessary and can be "bypassed". i used a 1/4" male to 1/4" cable i had in my spare parts collection. sounds as beautiful as when i first purchased the speakers a decade ago! i guess i'm lucky to not have the input issue with my im-700 speakers
robert guevara · April 13, 2009 - 14:50 EST #231
To the community of monsooners: thanks
Mike · May 2, 2009 - 11:45 EST #232
#232 Hey john,

I finally got around to opening up the sub however i can't seem to identify a replaceable fuse...im assuming its sodered to the board. Do you know what it might look like and how difficult it might be to fix?
Todd · June 19, 2009 - 14:39 EST #233
Thank you for publishing this info - I was worried that my PM9's were now trash because of the puck issue. Used the pinout info to splice on a new DIN and I'm back in business!
Peter · June 22, 2009 - 18:27 EST #234
I have a set of the MM2000. An accident damaged the plug for the (remote) control unit. I brought it to someone but he did not repair it properly, although considering he did not have the schematics, he did not do too bad a job. I still have control over the volumn, although I lost some of the other adjustments.

Anyone with a spare control unit? I am in Toronto, ON.

I am also not averse to some sodering, and some simple modificaitons. Is there any ex Monsoon techs with the MM 2000 schematics that maps the connections from the control to the main unit? I will monitor the comments here and get in touch if you post a reply.
Mike · July 8, 2009 - 14:10 EST #235
Hey everyone,
I would really like to replace the Monsoon Sub and keep my M1000 speakers. Does anyone know of a good replacement? (I noticed that logitech was mentioned but not a specific model) If not does anyone know what I need to know to select one (Watts?)? Also what is the name for the way these speakers connect (is it spring clip)?
Acix · November 2, 2009 - 02:44 EST #236
I just got the MH-500s satellites...but not the sub :( I'll be very happy if someone has the sub and the controller for sale, or just recommend me a sub replacement that can fit and work well with the MH-500s satellites
Dee · January 5, 2010 - 11:14 EST #237
I have the Monsoon 500, 700, 1000 and the PM 9.
None have ever sounded as good as the PM 9's. However, the 8-pin din is a piece. Mine broke and, from the above pin-out, I was able to re solder all the wires back to the connector. They sound as good as ever and I have yet to find anything that compares within the same price range.
Mach42 · January 21, 2010 - 23:10 EST #238
Hello, I have the MM-2000. I love these speakers and would probably guard them with bloodshed. They sound and work as amazingly as the day that I got them, except for one issue. There is a faint 60hz hum coming from the speakers. I think that it's the control unit, because the hum disappears if the mute button is pressed. It's definitely not coming from the computer and I've tried different power outlets and power strips. Any help on this issue?
JPD · January 27, 2010 - 10:31 EST #239
Thanks Ted (#225) - I took your advice and replaced my sub yesterday (female connector to control went P.O.S.)

re:#225 John's request for info: Future Shop have these in stock now (in Canada anyway)

Logitech Z-2300 - total RMS Power: 200watts: Satellites - 80 watts (2x40)into 8 ohms: sub - 120 watts: total peak power - 400 watts
Speakers plug into sub using RCA jacks: comes with a superior control unit (volume bass mute and headphone out): FWIW I tried the Logitech Sat's but am keeping the planar 9's because they are amazing as we know! Hope this helps and thanks for the previous comments/observations: they put me onto the path to audio happiness (ps - about $200 Cdn)
Kent Witham · February 26, 2010 - 23:16 EST #240
My Monsoon MM1000 DC adapter had died on me, i found a replacement that works. It's only 1000 MA, but seems to be ok if i don't crank the volume.
there's a 3.3 amp one right below, but it's $61.60 :)

http://www.action-electronics.com/acadapter.htm

15-VDC 1-Amp
deepsound · March 1, 2010 - 12:29 EST #241
Kent (#243), I also had this problem, and found a used laptop power adapter (Toshiba PA3049U-1ACA) on eBay for $20 that did the trick. It is rated at 15V/3A, and has the correct adapter tip, so no modification is required!
John Bartholomew · March 1, 2010 - 14:46 EST #242
Thanks, deepsound and Kent. I checked out Kent's link and found the particular part, "SW-154T." The web page mentions that the plug (output connector, that is) is a 3 by 6.3mm type. I think this is smaller than the stock Monsoon connector, and if I'm right, anyone using this as a replacement will need to remove and replace the plug with the proper size.

I am really writing to say that both of these look like a great replacement, primarily because they are switching supplies. I'll skip the geek stuff, but supplies of this type are much smaller and lighter than the conventional Monsoon unit. Some Monsoon owners are probably unaware that the standard Monsoon supply is essentially a very large "wall wart." The fact it has a power cord rather than being a blob with prongs that plug directly into the wall socket is simply due to the fact that it is too heavy and too large for that to be practical.

There are a couple advantages of a switching supply: The output voltage of the supply is regulated. That is a good thing for any supply that is feeding an audio amplifier. (To the best of my knowledge, the standard unit is not regulated. I should check.) Second, they draw a tiny amount of power when the Monsoons are not actively being used. In addition, even when the amps are going full blast this kind of supply stays cooler than an old-style unit of equivalent capacity, which is an indication that they are doing the very-much-in-fashion thing by wasting less power in the process of doing so.

Lastly, they will also have over-current protection. The good news: if the current demanded from the supply exceeds a preset amount, they protect themselves by shutting themselves off. The bad news: if you are playing the speakers really loud and the current passes that threshold even momentarily, the system will just go silent, but if you then turn everything off for a brief period, the supply will reset itself. The good news: driving the flat panels really hard can cause the film forming the moving part to tear at the point where it is attached to the frame. In other words, this might protect you from a momentary lapse of judgment, or for instance one of your son's friends using your M1000 as a keyboard amplifier.
rick snyder · April 4, 2010 - 18:29 EST #243
All of this has been quite interesting reading. I am glad I stumbled on this site. I have owned a Monsoon MM1000 system since ’98 and I think it has always sounded very good.

Recently I have decided to upgrade the sound for my computer. A sound card for sure, and possibly modifying the speakers. Maybe replace the stock speaker wire, and subwoofer cone.

Can the stock speaker wire be replaced? And is there a suitable replacement available for the subwoofer? Are there any other things that can be done to improve sound quality?
Wearyman · April 8, 2010 - 22:22 EST #244
I just thought I would drop another short note. Those following this thread may remember I posted a link to a Blogspot blog that I was intending to use as an information collection point about the Monsoon speaker systems.

Unfortunately I had several upheavals in my life and had to step away from the blog. However things have settled down for me and I am back. I will be posting new articles and information over at monsoonaudio dot blogspot dot com. Feel free to stop by.
Martha Boynton · August 28, 2010 - 09:19 EST #245
We had our computer reformatted.... I think that's the right word and now my monsoons don't work. I want my speakers back. When I go into my systems preferences all it has listed is the internal speakers in my Mac. Help me please.
Lee Bennett (ATPM Staff) · August 28, 2010 - 09:38 EST #246
Martha - Go to the Apple Menu, System Preferences. Then choose the Sound preference pane. When that appears, click the Output tab. You'll probably see that "Internal Speakers" is selected. Change it to either Line Out or Digital Out—whichever one your Monsoons are using.
Martha Boynton · August 29, 2010 - 21:17 EST #247
My only choice is "internal speakers". I have unplugged, shut off the
monsoons and plugged it back in and turned it back on and it still doesn't
recognize that I have them.

Now what?

Martha
Lee Bennett (ATPM Staff) · August 30, 2010 - 10:41 EST #248
Martha - this is beginning to sound like an issue that is beyond what we here at ATPM can assist. I'll make one last attempt...please go to the Apple menu and select About This Mac. Then click the More Info button on the window that appears. In a few moments, the System Profiler will appear and the contents will be populated after the utility polls your computer. Click the "Audio" item in the left side under "Hardware." In the right side, you may see one, or more than one, item, such as Built-in Sound Card. Look through those and look in the "Devices" section that will appear in the bottom right pane. What I'm looking for is something that says that "Line Level Output" is available under the "Inputs and Outputs" section in "Devices." If this isn't visible anywhere, then I have to wonder if somehow the audio output hardware has been forgotten—i.e. the driver for it was lost when the computer was reformatted. I'd be hard-pressed to believe this because I thought the driver was part of the OS X installation, but I suppose it wouldn't be impossible.

Whether or not you find an Line Level Output item, you're probably still going to have to find a local Mac-certified technician, but it will help him/her to know if the System is seeing a Line Level Output device, as reported by the System Profiler.
Andrew · August 31, 2010 - 11:47 EST #249
For the MM-700's, what ohms are the left and right satellite inputs ?
Martha Boynton · September 1, 2010 - 06:38 EST #250
So this is what Audio says in the system profiler:

Intel High Definition Audio:
Audio ID: 60
Speaker:
Connection: Internal
Headphone:
Connection: Combination Output
Internal Microphone:
Connection: Internal
Line Input:
Connection: Combination Input
S/PDIF Optical Digital Audio Output:
Connection: Combination Output
S/PDIF Optical Digital Audio Input:
Connection: Combination Input
Speaker:
Connection: Internal
Headphone:
Connection: Combination Output
Internal Microphone:
Connection: Internal
Line Input:
Connection: Combination Input
S/PDIF Optical Digital Audio Output:
Connection: Combination Output
S/PDIF Optical Digital Audio Input:
Connection: Combination Input
Lee Bennett (ATPM Staff) · September 1, 2010 - 11:24 EST #251
Martha - Althought I don't specifically see a line audio output listing, my understanding of the newer Macsis that the Combination Input serves as both the optical/digital jack as well as a standard line audio jack, but it should still list a line output in the Audio preferences.

Have a look at this image: http://www.fvrcs.gov.bc.ca/knowledgeroot/uploads/image/mac_sound_output.png

Ignore the highlighted UAC item. Above it, you'll see both a Line Out and Digital Out choice, and it's that Line Out which should be selected to get audio out to the external speakers. If Line Out is missing, then its driver somehow got removed during your reinstall and will have to be restored, and I'm afraid this is as far as I can help on that matter. You'll need to speak to Apple support or an Apple-certified technician in your local area.
Martha Boynton · September 4, 2010 - 22:21 EST #252
my son stopped by and plugged it in to the headphone port and for some reason it excepted it and now I have sound coming from my Monsoon speakers. I'm not sure if that's how it suppose to work... but it does. Thank you all for your help.
Martha
Steve Klein · October 30, 2010 - 17:27 EST #253
Wonderful old thread. Thanks for keeping it going.
I've had my 4 monsoon speakers, the 8 pin DIN connected puck to the subwoofer. Just not sure which model that is called. No center channel, and this is at least a 5.1 type surround system.

As a hobbyist audiophile, I have always been blown away by these sweet speakers. If I had the bucks for Magnepans and tube electronics, then, I'd have an excuse to not listen to these exclusively.

Next Q. I'm ready to take this perfect condition system that has never hiccuped and use it on my flat panel TV. Will I need a surround amp to decode the Dolby signal? Can I just run RCA adapters to female 1/8" connector? The computer out put is a low level line level input. I don't know the values between TV output and computer output, and need a plan before I start plugging and testing.

If I must get a amp, then unlikely the Monsoons will be the surround speakers since they are intended to run off low level inputs.
GlennS · November 18, 2010 - 11:06 EST #254
Like many others, my volume control doohickey broke soon after I bought my MM-1000. But it is easy to bypass. Just go to Radio Shack and get a single stereo mini plug cord (3.5mm) long enough to go from your sound card or headphone output jack to the input of the Monsoon module. Volume control can be controlled in many ways. If you have a PC, there is the system volume control accessible from "All Programs, Accesories, Entertainment, Volume Control". Or, use a mixer or playback interface that likely is part of your soundcard's software. I actually built a quality volume control using a DPDT switch and a 500k potentiometer, with a small RC network to protect against excessive levels and transients. I am an audio hobbyist/reviewer so I realize I have a bit more experience in these things, but the single cable works - I am using one now because my dog chewed up the VC I made. Bad dog. Hope this helps.
Paul · February 7, 2011 - 00:46 EST #255
Hey! I have the 14s, I just bought them, and they have the typical problems: buzzy midrange in one sattelite, operational though suspect puck, and the thing I would love to fix: an everpresent low hum in the subwoofer, which works well otherwise. What's the easy fix for the hum? Is there one?

Puck bypass? I read a lot of the ATPM and there are many opinions about the puck, which is fine in my case, for the moment, but no talk about the humming woofer. Please let me know. I already fixed the sattelite with some photo mount glue (I know), but the hum is beyond me. Here's hoping there's a way. Thanks.

Paul
paul · February 7, 2011 - 11:56 EST #256
Ok, I didn't mention some details. The hum is on as soon as the woofer is turned on. It is on even If I unplug the source (my computer headphone jack) and the hum does not depend on volume. I notice that the hum cuts when I press the mute button on the puck. Hopefully this will help a sympathetic reader diagnose the problem. Thanks in advance.
John Bartholomew · February 7, 2011 - 14:55 EST #257
Hello Paul,

I'll go out on a limb here. The fact that the hum stops when you push the mute button suggests that the electrical path from the puck to the input of the amplifier is the problem. One or more of the three wires may have gone resistive. This might be due to a flaky volume potentiometer. Or it could be a solder joint gone bad and I'd suspect the puck end rather than the plug end.

John B.
Paul · February 16, 2011 - 19:45 EST #258
Thanks, John. The volume knob does make the scratchy noise when I use it (I never do), so I bet you're right. Is this hum damaging anything? I don't want to open up pandora's puck and start playing with the wires because I will probably break the system. So I will live with the low hum if it is not slowing ruining the system. Thanks again.
John Bartholomew · February 18, 2011 - 03:51 EST #259
Hey Paul, if you can indeed live with the hum, don't worry about damage to the system. The amplifier is having to work a little harder than it would otherwise, but this is not going to damage it. Good luck with the level remaining relatively low.
Other Paul in Vancouver · February 18, 2011 - 10:59 EST #260
Well, interesting my puck went bye bye a few years back...did a good work around which worked for quite awhile.
Then came the buzzing. Tried everything.
I think the sub is gone...will try to buy new membrane speakers though.
RIP Monsoon M500's
Gary Wright · April 29, 2012 - 13:27 EST #261
I just bought a lot containing 6 sets of Monsoon MM-700's w/ additional 5 MM-1000 sub-woofers. No power supplies for MM-1000 subs or stands for the satellite speakers. Does anyone have any spare parts for these? I would also be interested in the "puck" style remotes.

Thanks
pablo rabago · August 29, 2012 - 13:47 EST #262
my mm-700 dont have a red sticker on the wires can anyone tell me which cable is the positive ? theres one cable with letter and one without on each speaker
pedro_deleon · December 17, 2016 - 15:24 EST #263
This thread is NOT dead. LOL

I'm up above at post #187.
Finally found someone I thought I could trust to repair the "shorting" sound ... steady hummm ... that I assumed like others was the faulty input jack on the sub. (Wiggling the jack sometimes 'fixed' the issue momentarily)

Well, they are back and sounding simply grand.
The jack was fine. My puck is still working (15yrs running now ... with a long break).

Stereo Hospital (Jeff and Hunter) in Tucson -- vintage stereo repair shop -- repaired a number failed solders connecting the jack to the circuit board. Not really comfortable toying with the electronics on a classic, so I left this to folks who know what they are doing. I'll post again in 2021 with a five year update!!!
Harry Pan · December 17, 2016 - 23:31 EST #264
Proud monsoon owner for 12 yrs and now they're completely silent. I'll remember all the good yrs I spent with PM14s.

btw can anyone here comment on the sound quality between PM14s and MM1000s? I found some MM1000s on ebay and don't know if they'll sound better than PM14.

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